This time of year the dairy section of your grocery store is probably featuring a seasonal offering, most likely with red and green on the carton. It's eggnog, of course, and although it may not be everyone's favorite holiday drink, it has been around long enough to be synonymous with this holiday season.

Eggnog is a rich-tasting drink with a rich tradition, if not a precise history. The beverage is several centuries old, but exactly how and where it first became popular remains a bit of a mystery. So is the origin of its name, although there are a couple of plausible theories.

Early versions of the drink may have been made with ale, and nog is an old English word for ale. But it's also possible that the name derived from the fact that nog was a shortened version of noggin, a slang term for the short mugs used for ale and beer.

Whatever the origin of the name or the drink itself, eggnog was eagerly embraced in this country, usually with the widely available rum as the liquor of choice.

These days, a drink of eggs, cream and liquor doesn't exactly qualify as health food. But that's a relatively recent development. In earlier times, eggs, milk and liquor could be just what the doctor ordered.

Because there is ample room to adjust the proportions of the basic ingredients, cholesterol- and calorie-counters are free to experiment with slimmed-down versions. And for those worried about ingesting raw eggs, here's a tip: Before using the egg-yolk mixture, slowly heat it to 160 degrees Fahrenheit, or until it coats a metal spoon. (Eggnog made in dairies is usually pasteurized, killing any harmful bacteria.)

I'm a firm believer that for a true appreciation of this holiday treat, it's worth trying the real thing at least once. By "real," I mean whipping cream, whipped egg whites, beaten yolks and at least a splash of liquor to tie the flavors together. Actually, which liquor and what amount you add is a highly personal thing. As one eggnog recipe reads, "Serves 12, inebriates 4." So proceed at your own safe pace.

One more thing: Good eggnog doesn't have to be alcoholic, and certainly not overpoweringly potent. Children and nondrinkers should be able to enjoy this festive drink as well. And because old recipes often capture the charm of traditional beverages better than contemporary jazzed-up or slimmed-down versions, I've chosen two old standards, one for a single serving, one for a crowd.

If you're treating your friends to eggnog during this holiday season, experiment and enjoy!

Simple Eggnog

1 serving

1 fresh country egg

sugar to taste

pinch of salt

1 tablespoon good whiskey or brandy

1 cup rich milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

touch of nutmeg

Separate the egg, beating both the yolk and white. Add the sugar and salt to the yolk, then the whiskey or brandy, milk and vanilla. Lastly add the white of the egg. Mix and strain into a tall glass and serve cold. Grate a touch of nutmeg on top.

- Mrs. Augustine T.S. Stoney (Louisa Jenkins), from "Charleston Receipts," collected by the Junior League of Charleston, S.C., 1950

Eggnog in Quantity

Makes about 1 dozen servings

12 egg yolks

1 pound confectioners' sugar

4 or more cups dark rum, brandy, bourbon or rye

2 quarts whipping cream

8 to 12 egg whites

fresh nutmeg

Beat the egg yolks until they are light in color. Gradually beat in the confectioners' sugar. Add 2 cups of liquor (or combination of liquors) very slowly, beating constantly. (Note: Any of these liquors can form the basic ingredient of the nog or may be combined to taste.)

Let the mixture stand covered for 1 hour to dispel the "eggy" taste. Add, beating constantly, 2 or more cups of liquor and the whipping cream. Refrigerate for 3 hours. Beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Fold them lightly into the other ingredients. Serve the eggnog sprinkled with fresh nutmeg.

- "The Joy of Cooking" by Irma S. Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker (Bobbs- Merrill Co. Inc., 1982)