Despite a growing season afflicted by severe drought, Maryland's farmers' markets posted bumper sales for the year drawing to a close, according to state agriculture officials.

"This will be the best year ever for Maryland's 74 farmers' markets," said Roland Behnke, the direct farm marketing representative on the Maryland Agricultural Commission, which advises the governor on farm issues.

Tony Evans agrees. The coordinator of the farmers' market program at the state Department of Agriculture, he estimates that sales are up about 10 percent this year, topping more than $5 million.

"Five million plus is a conservative estimate," said Evans. "They could be as high as $6 million."

The robust business activity was evident Saturday morning at the weekly farmers' market in the city's Waverly neighborhood.

At 9 a.m. parking spaces surrounding the 32nd Street market were hard to find. Hundreds of shoppers endured the chilly temperature to stand in lines - some 10 to 12 people long - for the chance to buy a wide variety of fruits and vegetables. Fresh baked goods, apple cider, jams, jellies and honey also were sold.

"You can't beat this for freshness," said Barbara Griffith of Clifton Park as she handed over the money for Brussels sprouts still attached to the stem.

Waverly is one of the eight farmers' markets served by Black Rock Orchard in Lineboro, according to owner David Hochheimer. He also sells his fruits and vegetables in the Washington area and Northern Virginia.

He said the drought reduced the size of his peaches and apples this year but enhanced their flavor. Despite the smaller fruit, his sales were up about 10 percent this year, he said.

The drought did cut into his fall raspberry crop, though.

"They didn't get enough rain," Hochheimer said. "We normally pick a couple thousand pints, and this year we picked only about 200 to 300 pints."

Joseph Bartenfelder, another vendor at the Waverly market, said he was able to irrigate his fields, which enabled him to grow an adequate supply of vegetables.

"Sales were pretty steady all year," he said, "but no better than last year, which was a very good year."

Evans said the Maryland Department of Agriculture established a farmers' markets program in 1990 as a way to boost farms' sales and profits. At that time, there were 21 markets in the state.

This year, eight new markets were added and one dropped out. For the first time since the program began, a farmers' market exists in each county.

"Our failure rate is 15 percent over the years," said Evans. "I think that is a lot better than for most small businesses."

"This is a classic case of demand exceeding supply," said Evans. "I can't find enough farmers to serve the demand for a growing number of markets. If I had 20 new produce people, I could open six new markets in 2003."

Evans said most of the markets operate from June through October.

"Some stay open until after the Christmas holidays, and a few are open year-round," he said. In the Baltimore area, the Waverly market is open all year and the Fallsway market runs into December.

Evans said annual sales vary greatly among the farms serving the markets. "Several farm operations, primarily the fruit farms, will do over $100,000 a year in sales. It is not uncommon for them to sell $3,000 to $4,000 at a single market in a single day," he said.

"It's not the bargains that bring the shoppers out, it's the freshness and the quality of the produce," he said.