2001 Husch Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley ($12). Unhand that chardonnay! This extremely well-balanced Mendocino County gewurztraminer is a much better match with your Thanksgiving turkey. Husch's 2001 is much drier than most California gewurztraminers, but that doesn't mean it lacks fruit or body. Its lush flavors of peach, lemon, melons and exotic spices are much better suited to the Thanksgiving feast than the oak flavors that dominate many chardonnays. (Sorry to harp on this, but there are still "experts" who recommend this mismatch.) This is about as close to the style of an Alsace gewurztraminer as California gets. It's a classy wine and a great value.