Thanks to their cooperative nature, amaryllis, hyacinths and paperwhites can be coaxed into bloom for the winter holidays. And no horticulture degree is required.

Gardeners can humor these typically spring-flowering bulbs into an early performance indoors by following these easy recipes.

Amaryllis

The amaryllis wants to please. And please it does, with large, elegant, trumpet-shaped blooms.

To force for winter color:

Select large, firm bulbs. The bigger the bulb, the more numerous the blooms.

Clean the bulbs by removing dried scales and any dried roots. Store the bulbs in a cool, dry place until potting time. Before potting, soak the roots in lukewarm water for at least four hours. Pot Dutch bulbs six to eight weeks before you want flowers. Bloom time varies a little among varieties. Many potted in early November bloom in mid-December.

Select a clay pot (with a drainage hole) that is 2 inches larger in diameter than the bulb; fill the pot with a rich, well-draining potting mix. Spread the roots over a small mound of mix in the pot, then add more mix and gently firm to eliminate air pockets and secure the bulb. Leave the upper third of the bulb above the soil line.

Water well with tepid water, and do not water again for about 10 days. Then water sparingly until the flower stalk appears.

Place the pot in a warm, draft-free place in indirect light. When the bloom stalk is 2 to 3 inches tall, move the amaryllis into bright light. Begin weekly applications of a soluble fertilizer at quarter-strength. Rotate the container to avoid a leaning stalk.

Stake the flower stalk to support the future large, heavy blooms. Tie the stake loosely to the stalk so it does not touch petals or bulb.

Amaryllis flowers retain quality for about two weeks in indirect light. Remove the flower stalk two inches above the neck of the bulb once the blooms have withered; leave the foliage to grow.

Continue to grow the amaryllis in its container, fertilizing monthly until September, then allow the bulb to go dormant. Or transplant in April in the garden with half of the bulb above the soil in a fertile, well-drained bed that receives morning sun and afternoon shade.

Amaryllis are easily forced over water in a large, cinched glass, but long-stalked varieties do topple, so provide support.

Hyacinths

The fragrant, formal Dutch hyacinth is an excellent choice for forced winter bloom. The plump bulbs can be forced into bloom in four to six weeks in cinched glasses of water or in pots of soil.

Each bulb produces one 6- to 10-inch flower spike; the larger the bulb, the bigger the bloom spike. The spikes are packed with waxy blue, violet, red, pink, salmon, yellow or white blooms.

Chill hyacinth bulbs four to six weeks before forcing or planting in the garden in November. These bulbs can cause skin rashes, so wear gloves while handling. Store the bulbs on a refrigerator shelf in a mesh bag or nylon stocking. Do not store with fruits and vegetables because the ethylene gas produced by these foods can damage or kill the buds within each bulb.

To force hyacinths over water:

Place 1/2 teaspoon of agricultural charcoal (available at garden centers) in the cinched forcing glass to keep the water from souring.

Place a large, firm bulb on the small, upper section of the glass container; add water to just beneath the bottom of the bulb.

Place the container in a dark area where the temperature is in the 40- to 50-degree range, such as an unheated garage, or return the bulb to the refrigerator. Do not let the bulb freeze. Maintain the water level just beneath the base of the bulb.

Remove the hyacinth from this storage when the root system has developed and top growth has begun.

Some people place a black paper cone or paper sack over the bulb to stretch the stalk and ensure that it grows straight. Gradually move the glass from low to brighter light, but preferably where the temperature is cool.

Remove the sack or cone when the bud begins to show color, and move the hyacinth to brighter, indirect light. Turn the glass a bit each day so the flowers do not lean. Watch the water level and add water when needed. Flowers will last longer with cool night temperatures.

To force hyacinths in pots:

Force more than one bulb for a more impressive effect. Plant one bulb per 4-inch pot and group several of these pots, or plant three bulbs in a 5- or 6-inch pot. Plant the bulbs with the tips right at the soil line and bottoms on a layer of sand in a well-draining potting medium. Mix in 1 teaspoon of bone meal per 6 inches of pot. Water well.

Place the container in a cool (40- to 50-degree), dark place -- an unheated garage or the refrigerator. Keep the medium moist but not too wet. Roots will form and grow during this cool treatment.

When there is about 4 inches of growth emerging from the bulbs, move the pot to a brighter, warmer area with temperatures in the 60- to 70-degree range. The cooler the temperature, the better the bloom. When the buds show color, move to brighter light, but avoid direct sunlight.

Turn the container every few days to encourage straight stalks. Water as needed. To extend the flowering period, keep the bulb in bright light, but avoid direct sun. Cool night temperatures also lengthen the life of the blooms.

Paperwhites

Store bulbs in a cool, well-ventilated, dark area before forcing the sweetly scented paperwhite narcissus into bloom in three to five weeks.

To force the bulbs over water:

Place 2 tablespoons (or a few pieces) of agricultural charcoal in a clean, shallow pot or bowl with sides at least 4 inches high and without drainage holes in the bottom. Charcoal helps keep the water fresh.

Fill the container two-thirds full with clean gravel or stones. For the best floral display, place as many bulbs as possible in the container, but do not let them touch one another or the sides of the pot. Place the bulbs on the gravel, pointed-side up. Fill in with more gravel to hold the bulbs upright, but do not cover them.

Add water until it's just beneath the bulb bottoms, and maintain it at this level. The roots will grow down into the water. Place the pot in a cool, dark area, such as under a box in a garage.

When roots have developed and the foliage begins to grow, move the container to a cool, brighter spot. Foliage will green up in the light. New shoots will develop rapidly; rotate the pot for even growth. Cool temperatures will prolong the life of the fragrant, white flowers, on an average, to 10 days.

To force paperwhite bulbs in soil:

Fill a terra-cotta pot or shallow dish with a well-draining potting soil. An 8-inch pot will hold eight paperwhite bulbs.

Place the bulbs nose up and a pencil width apart on top of the soil; gently press each bulb into the soil. Add soil around the base of each bulb until only the shoulders are visible.

Water thoroughly, then keep the soil evenly moist. Place the pot in a cool, dark area. When the stems are 2 to 3 inches tall, move the pot to a bright window.