As any Sopranos fan knows, the HBO series sometimes can seem as much about hearty Italian family dinners and Carmela Soprano's baked ziti as mob hits and Tony's "waste management" business.

It should come as little surprise, then, that Warner Books and HBO have ventured into the kitchen for a new moneymaking Sopranos spinoff -- The Sopranos Family Cookbook: As compiled by Artie Bucco ($29.95). With its combination of "interviews" with Sopranos characters and recipes that include Italian classics like eggplant parmigiana and cannoli, the book seems likely to be a hit with even noncooking fans.

Artie Bucco, the chef in the series who owns Tony Soprano's favorite restaurant, Nuovo Vesuvio, supposedly is the author. And he's packed it with fun items like Tony's grilling dos and don'ts, Chris Moltisanti's list of "Favorite Mob Movie Food Scenes" and amusing party tips by Carmela and Artie's wife, Charmaine. ("Carmela: For all but family affairs, have a going-away gift for guests. Make sure it's something unique that can be bought in bulk. Little porcelain angels are always a hit.")

Because he has included newspaper clippings of events in The Sopranos (like the fire that gutted his restaurant), photos from the series and notes on eating and food scribbled by characters like Tony's sister Janice, Artie's book comes across as an Italian food lover's Griffin & Sabine.

But it's not all kitsch and no substance. The real author, Allen Rucker, worked with Michele Scicolone (who has written several cookbooks, including this summer's Savoring Italy: Recipes and Reflections on Italian Cooking) on making sure that the Sopranos Family Cookbook has more than 100 solid recipes.

And if you don't care for ricotta or rigatoni, there are always the wry musings and recollections of the Soprano clan to offer entertainment.

"Ma would always comment about my portion size and make an askew mention of my 'ever-expanding backside,' " Janice Soprano "writes" in her chapter. "Tony, of course, would take even more food and no one said a thing. 'Anthony,' Ma would say, 'doesn't have to fit into a prom dress.' "

Janice's Vegetarian Baked Ziti

Serves 6 to 8

SAUCE:

one 10-ounce package white mushrooms, trimmed

1 large onion, chopped

1/4 cup olive oil

2 garlic cloves, chopped

two 28-ounce cans tomato puree

4 basil leaves torn into bits

salt and freshly ground pepper

1 cup fresh or frozen peas

PASTA:

1 pound ziti

salt

1 cup freshly grated pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano

1 cup ricotta

8 ounces mozzarella, cut into small dice

Place the mushrooms in a colander and rinse them quickly under cold running water. (Do not soak mushrooms, or they will absorb too much water.) Drain the mushrooms and pat dry. Slice the mushrooms 1/4 inch thick.

To make the sauce, cook the onion in the oil in a large skillet until tender and golden. Stir in the mushrooms and garlic and cook until the mushrooms are lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

Add the tomato puree, basil and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Stir in the peas.

Meanwhile, bring at least 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Add the ziti and salt to taste. Cook, stirring frequently, until the pasta is al dente, tender yet firm to the bite. Drain the ziti and place it in a bowl. Toss it with 3 cups of the sauce and 3/4 cup of the grated cheese.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Spoon half the ziti into a shallow 3 1/2 -quart baking dish. Spread the ricotta on top. Pour on 1 more cup of the sauce and sprinkle with the mozzarella. Top with the remaining ziti, sauce and grated cheese. Cover the dish with foil. (The ziti can be refrigerated for several hours, or overnight, at this point. Remove from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before baking.)

Bake the ziti for 45 minutes. Uncover and bake for 15 to 30 minutes longer, or until the center is hot and the sauce is bubbling around the edges. Cover and let stand for 15 minutes before serving.