A Memorable Place

On an island with a special someone

By Victoria Hecht

SPECIAL TO THE SUN

It would be stretching things to say that I had left Baltimore and come to Cumberland Island, Ga., as a result of a sale on hair color at my local CVS, but there is a connection.

I had run into the pharmacy one snowy evening last January to make a single purchase, but upon seeing a line at the register, ended up flipping through the latest issue of Travel & Leisure magazine as I waited. An article caught my attention -- "A Beach for Every Month" -- with photos of 12 shimmering beaches, each one paired with its ideal calendar month. Cumberland Island was matched with May.

The image was still with me several days later when I noticed an inexpensive airfare from Baltimore to Jacksonville, Fla.: Buy one ticket and a friend flies free. I knew just the friend, too! He had curiosity and esprit, and most importantly, our walking strides were in sync. Who better to stroll those deserted beaches with than my fiance, Steve?

A few months later, we were on the upper deck of the St. Mary's ferry, heading toward Cumberland Island. My mind wandered back to New Year's Day. We were visiting my sisters and their husbands when someone asked that age-old question: What one item would you take to a desert island? From around the room the answers varied: a lighter, a telescope, the Bible, my Prozac.

Now it's no longer a hypothetical question. Because Cumberland Island truly is deserted -- 17 miles of sandy beaches and wildlife that roams freely among the high dunes. And that's it. There's not an inch of development along the coast, just dunes punctuated by oak trees dripping with all that Spanish moss that's so eerily romantic.

And I'm thinking, what if we do get stranded? Did we pack the right things?

Here's what we brought: bottled water, fruit, pretzels, Nutter Butters (my priority), sunscreen, a towel, a camera. Enough for one afternoon, but not much longer.

When the ferry docks, everyone takes off in different directions. We go north because we've heard that sunbathers congregate on the south side, near the ferry landing.

Twenty minutes into our walk and we find ourselves alone. Two hours later and we are more than alone, we are alone with our thoughts. We walk hand-in-hand without saying much, stopping to pick up a shell or broken sand dollar. We spot a gazebo and take refuge there from the sun. We munch pretzels and look out at the ocean.

After a long silence, I feel as if I've just had one of the best conversations in my life. I look over at Steve and realize that it's not what you take to a desert island that matters most -- it's who you take.

Victoria Hecht lives in Baltimore.

My Best Shot

Shannon Shirvan,

Ellicott City

Niagara Falls: wet and fun

My family and I took advantage of low airfares last summer for a spur-of-the-moment trip to Niagara Falls. A highlight was the Canadian Falls. After donning rain ponchos and taking a long elevator ride, we stepped out on an observation platform to the side of the falls. Our youngest child, Leila, was a little hesitant. She relaxed quickly, though, and this photo captured the pure joy of a 4-year-old in the biggest puddle and misty rainfall she had ever seen.

Readers Recommend

St. George's Harbor, Bermuda

Brendan Healy, Arnold

I sailed from Hampton, Va., to Bermuda on a 45-foot sailboat with my dad and three of our friends in June. After a five-day sail, we arrived in Bermuda, and I immediately hopped on a scooter and headed to the top of St. George's Harbor. It was the beginning of a fantastic visit to this beautiful island.

Vezelay, France

Gary F. Suggars, Baltimore

I love once-prosperous towns that have fallen on hard times. Usually, there are major buildings, but no money to renovate or raze them, or to build anew. Wondrous examples of towns like this are Lucca in Tuscany and Bruges in Belgium. This spring I discovered another gem -- Vezelay in Burgundy, France. A sign there reads: "Vezelay: Pop. 571." I wonder if each birth or death results in a new sign?

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