2001 Antonin Rodet Bourgogne Blanc, A. Rodet Chardonnay ($11). White Burgundy is an expensive category of wines, and this is a rare value. It's a light but lively white wine with clean flavors of lemon, apple and flint. The varietal character of the chardonnay is fortunately not buried in oak. It's a good introduction to white Burgundy for new and nonwealthy wine drinkers, giving a hint of the greater delights to be found from more prestigious vineyards. It would be best served with seafood, lightly seasoned chicken or ham.