Rene Barbier Mediterranean Red, Catalunya ($6). People on tight budgets deserve decent wine, too, and this inexpensive Spanish red is much better than just decent. It's a medium-bodied, nonvintage wine with vibrant flavors of black cherry, wild berries and herbs. Complex? No, but it has no discernible flaws and loads of charm. It also comes along at the right time to fill the niche left by the woeful performance of Beaujolais in the 2001 vintage. Serve with poultry, pork or red meat - especially if grilled. It would also be an inspired choice as a restaurant house wine.