Back in Branson, Mo., the guitar players are tuning up. The cash registers are ringing. The smell of barbecue is floating through restaurant parking lots.
So what am I doing outside of town in the woods? Riding a bike and enjoying the silence.
Think of Branson and you're likely to conjure up an image of sequins-spangled country stars and water-slide-riding children. But there's another side to the Ozarks fun capital. After you've seen the shows, ridden the bumper boats, shopped the outlet malls and eaten your way to a larger belt size, why not get out and enjoy the wilderness that makes this part of southern Missouri attractive?
On a cool, sunny morning I headed south out of town, away from the Strip, and found myself in 10,000 acres of unspoiled paradise called Dogwood Canyon, the first of three wilderness areas I would visit.
For the next couple of hours, I pedaled over an asphalt path on an old-fashioned, one-speed bicycle, with a fat seat and a wire basket big enough for a sack lunch.
"It's just a breathtaking property," said Kenny Smith, the park's tour manager.
In 1990, Bass Pro Shops founder John L. Morris acquired the first 2,200 or so acres that would eventually become Dog-wood Canyon Nature Park. In 1996 the park opened to guests of nearby Big Cedar Lodge, which also is owned by Bass Pro Shops. The next year it opened to the public.
Last year, about 35,000 people walked and biked the park's trails, toured aboard guided trams, fished for trout in its streams, rode horses and oohed and ahhed at the herds of buffalo, elk and Texas longhorns. And they still had time to hit the shows in Branson afterward.
The park's trails provide a chance to get out and explore. Self-guided walking tours cost $7.95 for adults, and bike rentals are $14.95. If you want to ride a tram, rates begin at $17.95. And fishing starts at $25 for two hours of self-guided catch and release angling.
The park is beautiful, with streams and waterfalls, towering limestone cliffs, handcrafted covered bridges and flowering trees. And you can explore at your own pace. The park's wide, flat trail following Little Indian and Dogwood creeks is gentle enough so that visitors in wheelchairs can navigate it. Along the way, markers point out 23 stations whose significance is explained in a pocket-size guidebook.
Near Station 12, for example, is the Great Spirit Rock Shelter, where the oldest human remains ever discovered in Missouri were found, dating back about 8,000 years. At Station 14 is the Glory Hole, a waterfall and blue-green pool that's home to some whopper-size trout. And at Station 20, just before the Arkansas border, is an enormous sycamore tree that's thought to be more than 250 years old.
Hiking and biking opportunities abound elsewhere in the Branson area as well, according to Ty Lewis, a co-owner of Trek the Ozarks, a 6-year-old Branson company that rents equipment and organizes guided trips on bikes, canoes and kayaks.
"There's a wealth of opportunity here for biking, both mountain and road cycling," said Lewis, who has lived in Branson since he was a child.
The problem, he said, is that many people don't know about all those possibilities. Many visitors come to Branson for the traditional reasons -- the music and the shopping -- and only then discover the area's natural beauty.
"The city and surrounding area are starting to take note of the lifestyle of the residents," Lewis said. "They want to get out. They want a safe place to bike. ... I don't know that we're up-and-coming, but we've got biking as good as anywhere."
The hiking's not bad, either, and it's easy to find. In addition to Dogwood Canyon, trails wind through parks and recreation areas all over the area.
At the Lakeside Forest Wilderness Area, a 130-acre park inside the city limits, two trails offer scenic views and sometimes strenuous terrain.
Walk a short distance along one trail and you may see a field of wild irises in bloom. Farther on, a lookout platform affords a clear view of Lake Taneycomo far below. You will also come upon a cave and small waterfall.
A second trail, 1.3 miles long, loops through the park. Although there are some small hills, this is pretty easy stuff. A picnic area with tables awaits at the halfway point. If you've packed a lunch, this is the place to enjoy it.
More good hiking can be found west of Branson at the Ruth and Paul Henning Conservation Area, named for the Independence, Mo., native who created The Beverly Hillbillies and other TV shows in the 1960s.
Wander on the short, woodchip-paved path leading from the parking lot, and soon you'll come to a tower -- 55 steps to the top -- that offers a nice view of Branson.
Several other trails wind through the Henning area, which is operated by the Missouri Conservation Department. If you're a determined walker, you can hike both the Glade and Streamside trails in about 45 minutes.
When you go
Getting there: Branson is about 200 miles southeast of Kansas City. Several airlines offer connecting flights from BWI to Kansas City. From there, take Route 71 south to Clinton, then Route 7 south to Harrisonville. From there, follow Route 13 to Springfield. In Springfield, take Interstate 44 east, then Route 65 south to Branson.
Dogwood Canyon Nature Park, 2038 W. Missouri 86, Lampe, MO 65681
417-779-5983
www.dogwoodcanyon.com
* Hours: The park is open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. Reservations are recommended or required for many of the activities.
* Hiking: A paved path leads more than three miles into the park, beyond the Arkansas border. Hikers and bicyclists share the road. Admission: adults, $7.95; children ages 2 to 12, $2.95.
* Biking: Bicycle rentals cost $14.95 for adults, $6.95 for children.
* Tram tours: Visitors on the two-hour guided Wildlife Tour can see herds of buffalo, elk and Texas longhorn cattle. Adults, $23.95; children, $9.95. The shorter Glory Hole tour costs $17.95 for adults, $8.95 for children.
* Jeeps: Private tours cost $50 for adults, $35 for children.
* Horseback riding: Rides last one hour and cost $35; available only for ages 12 and older.
* Fishing: Trout fishing offered in two-hour slots. Catch and keep: $20 ($9.50 for children age 12 and younger), plus $3.50 a pound for fish. Catch and release: $25 ($12.50 for children). Half-day guided tours available on Monday, Wednesday and Friday for $195 a person. Reservations required.
* Cabins: Three cabins are available for rent at $199 to $299 a night.
More hiking: Hiking trails are plentiful in the hills and forests around Branson. Here's a sample:
* Busiek State Forest and Wildlife Area. More than 10 miles of trails in a 2,500-acre park, 14 miles north of Branson. 417-895-6880.
* Lakeside Forest Wilderness Area. 130-acre city park in Branson. Open daily from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. 417-337-8510.
* Ruth and Paul Henning Conservation Area. More than 1,500 acres with hiking trails and a lookout tower, west of Branson. Open from dawn until dusk. 417-334-3324.
* Shepherd of the Hills Fish Hatchery. North of Table Rock Dam. In addition to hatchery tours, walking trails are available. 417-334-4865.
Lodging: The Branson area offers more than 20,000 rooms in its hotels, motels, B&Bs;, resorts and condominiums. Here are three choices:
Grand Plaza Hotel, 245 N. Wildwood Drive, Branson, MO 65616
800-850-6646
www.bransongrandplaza.com
* A full-service hotel with 200 rooms near Bobby Vinton Theater. Summer specials start at $59.95 a night for two or more nights.
Chateau on the Lake, 415 N. Missouri 265, Branson
888-333-5253
www.chateauonthelakebran son.com
* A resort hotel with 300 rooms on Table Rock Lake. Weekday summer rates begin about $119; weekends about $139.
Big Cedar Lodge, 612 Devil's Pool Road, Ridgedale, MO 65739
417-335-2777
www.bigcedarlodge.com
* Rustic luxury resort on Table Rock Lake about 10 miles south of Branson with 237 rooms and cabins. Summer rates start at $135.
For more information about Branson, contact the Branson / Lakes Area Chamber of Commerce & Convention & Visitors Bureau: 800-214-3661; www.explorebranson.com.