2000 Georges Duboeuf Morgon Cuvee Prestige ($12). Duboeuf's Beaujolais wines are a model of consistency, but they can reach back and give you something a little extra-special in fine years such as 2000. This Morgon, one of the best wine villages of Beaujolais, offers flo ral aromas, generous fruit and a silky texture. The black-cherry and black-raspberry flavors are pure and inviting, with the concentration of a fine Burgundy (for which this would be an excellent inexpensive sub stitute). This versatile wine would go well with a wide range of foods, but poultry or game bird on the grill would be a near-perfect match.