There are two things I like to see outside a barbecue restaurant: a pile of wood in the back and a big ol' pig on the roof. Andy Nelson's Southern Pit Barbecue in Cockeysville has them both.

Inside the restaurant, the waiting area has a laid-back feel and features red and black checkerboard tiles, a ceiling fan and a pig motif. (There's something to be said for celebrating the thing you're about to eat, I suppose.) There are also clippings about Nelson's career as a Baltimore Colt, and a notice about the restaurant from the National BBQ News.

There was nothing leisurely about the service, and our large order appeared in just a few minutes. A bag full of barbecued meat gave the inside of the Honda a comforting, down-home smell for the ride home.

The best entree was the pulled pork sandwich ($4.20), which featured delicious smoky shreds on a fresh roll. The pork ribs - $8.95 for a good-sized half rack - had been cooked black, but were tender, delicious and basically fell off the bone.

The brisket sandwich ($4.75) included a 2-inch-thick pile of vinegary beef, which was a bit overwhelming in size. Nelson's yardbird sandwich ($4.20) was a smoked chicken breast on a roll. It was nicely flavored but a little dry.

Be advised: None of the barbecue came drenched in a sauce, which goes against Nelson's cooking philosophy. At home, though, I was longing to add a bit more to the sandwiches and wished the staff had mentioned that I might want to take some extra with me.

As for side dishes, we loved the baked beans ($1.75), which were swimming in a tangy sauce that was both peppery and slightly sweet. Tater wedges ($1.50) were just that - big slices of potatoes roasted in pepper and other spices. The coleslaw ($1.75) was simple - cabbage, carrot flecks and celery seeds in a light dressing - a nice counterpoint to all the meats.

We crowned the dinner with a slice of Nelson's Alabama apple cake ($1.95), a moist, cinnamon-flavored concoction.

Andy Nelson's sits on York Road amid a long stretch of strip malls, antiques shops and fast-food restaurants. The parking lot is a little cramped, but Nelson makes up for it with a drive-through window.

Andy Nelson's BBQ

Food: * * *

Service: * * * 1/2

Waiting area: * * *

Parking: * *

Where: 11007 York Road, Cockeysville

Phone: 410-527-1226; fax: 410-527-0646

Hours: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday-Saturday; credit cards accepted