2001 J Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley ($18). You'll have to look on the back label for any information other than the bold letter J, but this is a wine whose quality matches its distinctive packaging. This dry white wine offers concentrated and complex flavors of pear, peach, mineral, spice, sweet pea, honey and tangerines. It finishes with vibrant acidity that refreshes the palate. This is one of the best wines made from the pinot gris grape, also known as pinot grigio, in the United States. It's a natural to pair with salmon.