1999 Napa Ridge Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($12). Napa Ridge used to make affordable wines that were good enough to fool people into thinking they actually came from the Napa Valley. They weren't, and the feds put an end to the practice. But now Napa Ridge has been reborn with a Napa Valley grape source -- if you can believe the label. The result? Probably the most inexpensive Napa Valley cabernet you'll find on the market today -- and a very good one. The 1999 shows generous black-cherry and black-currant fruit, hints of chocolate and sweet oak and impressive flavor intensity. It's as complex as many Napa Valley cabernets that sell for $20-$30. How does this winery do it? Don't ponder the question. Just stock up.