1999 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley ($15). This widely distributed wine from one of the nation's finest large wineries shows just how classy a midpriced Washington state cabernet can be. This full-bodied wine is packed with black cherry, black currant, chocolate and toasty oak flavors. The tannins are soft but ample, giving the consumer the option of drinking it now or letting it develop for five to eight years. Its complexity level compares well with many California cabernets in the $20 to $40 range. Serve with beef, game, lamb or veal chop.