2001 Goldwater Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough ($20). The idea of paying $20 for a New Zealand sauvignon blanc seemed questionable to me; then I tasted this stunning dry white wine. It offers a complexity and excitement equal to the finest Sancerre of the Loire Valley, but with a flavor intensity peculiar to New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Its herb, mint and mineral flavors come through with crystalline purity. This style isn't for everybody, but devotees of dramatic and oak-free sauvignon blanc will adore this impeccably crafted wine. Its best match would be with a spicy seafood dish.