1999 Morgan Reserve Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands ($38). Yes, it's expensive. But let's call this a splurge for Thanksgiving and a shot in the arm for the American wine industry. This impeccable pinot noir, which deftly combines the power of California fruit with the finesse of Burgundian style, would be a superb companion to a roast turkey dinner. It's packed with black- cherry flavor and displays excellent length, balance and complexity. Can't afford it? Here's a budget alternative: the 2000 Georges Dubouef Morgon "Jean Descombes" ($13), a superb Beaujolais from a top estate. Prefer a white? An Alsace pinot gris is a great match. The 1999 Trimbach Reserve ($15) is a fine example.