2000 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg ($8.75).
If only more California wineries knew what to do with chenin blanc, a classic but underappreciated white-wine grape from the Loire Valley of France. Too few make chenin blanc at all, and too many of those make it syrupy-sweet. Not Dry Creek. Its chenin blanc is bone-dry, fresh, crisp, delightful and sensationally priced. It offers subtle flavors of apple, melon, minerals and sweet peas -- with maybe just a hint of cherry. It's an exceptional summer wine to serve with seafood or Asian cuisine or to enjoy by itself. It will last a year but will be best between now and Labor Day.