1999 Columbia Winery Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley ($10). This dry, crisp white wine from Washington state is one of the best examples of this classic Alsace variety (also known as pinot grigio in Italy) that I've tasted from an American winery. The price is a steal, too, especially when you consider what a comparable chardonnay would cost. It offers flavors of lemon, apple, pear, minerals, nuts, spices and even a nuance of coconut. And it presents this melange of flavors while keeping an exquisite elegance and balance and finishing long and clean. Drink by the case over the next year, preferably with salmon or swordfish.