1997 Napa Ridge Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($20). Twenty bucks might not seem inexpensive, but it's dirt-cheap when you are talking about Napa Valley cabernet from the 1997 vintage. It's even better when the wine is as complex, rich and seductive as this one. It offers bright, vibrant, black-cherry, black-currant and vanilla flavors. Superbly structured, it can be expected to improve over the next five to10 years, as the oak flavors integrate and the bouquet emerges. But it will be hard to resist drinking it. This wine cries out to be served with a fine preparation of beef or lamb.