1998 Perrin Reserve Cotes du Rhone ($11). This meaty, chunky red wine from the south of France isn't designed to be cellared for years or studied to death. It's just a delight for uncomplicated drinking with hamburgers or pizza right now. A medium-bodied red, it offers flavors of black cherry, black currant, herbs and leather.
1998 Perrin Reserve Cotes du Rhone ($11)....