1999 Preston of Dry Creek Barbera, Dry Creek Valley ($22). Barbera may not have the cachet of sangiovese or nebbiolo, Italy's most renowned grapes, but it has far outperformed them in California. Preston's version is especially impressive because of its structure, length and intensity. It offers compelling flavors of black cherry, spices, smoked meats and earth, capped with that extra dollop of acidity that distinguishes barbera from other red varietals. This would be wonderful with pasta, stew or grilled red meat. While drinkable now, it should age beautifully.