1999 Jekel Monterey Late Harvest Riesling, Winemaker's Collection ($18/half bottle.) Do you ever like to wind up an elegant dinner party with a truly decadent dessert wine? If so, here's an excellent candidate that won't set you back the $40 or more you might pay for its German counterpart. This ultra-ripe riesling, with sweet flavors concentrated and seasoned by the botrytis mold ("noble rot"), is bursting with freshness and fruit. It offers lush but well-focused flavors of apricot, clove, nutmeg, peach and honey. It doesn't have the acidity or aging potential of great German riesling, but it's well-balanced, complex and finishes cleanly. Serve it by itself, with fresh fruit or with a fruit tart.