1999 Georges Duboeuf Viognier, Vin de Pays de l'Ardeche ($12). Here's a delightful alternative to chardonnay at a most reasonable price. Viognier, a classic white-wine grape from the Northern Rhone, can lose its fruity charm when planted in inferior locations, but Duboeuf has found vineyard sites in the south of France that retain the grape's exotic flavors of nuts, oranges, peaches, pears, tropical fruit, spices and litchis. No oak stands between the fruit and the taster. Like most fine viogniers, this wine gives the impression of sweetness while actually being quite dry. That makes it a delightful companion to seafood dishes, especially if grilled and served with a fruity salsa.