1999 Hugel Gentil ($10).
This proprietary Alsace white wine is a delicious, quite dry blend of Sylvaner, GewM-|rztraminer, riesling and other regional varieties. Made to be drunk young, it offers crisp flavors of apple, peach, pear, spices and tropical fruit. That might sound a bit overblown, but the wine is elegantly put together, showing great freshness and liveliness. It can be sipped for pure pleasure or paired with a variety of seafood dishes, especially shellfish. The Gentil has emerged as one of France's most reliable and widely available dry white wines in this price range.