1997 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Centennial Release, Napa Valley ($20).
There was a time when B. V. was the premier name in Napa Valley wine. That's no longer true, but B. V. can still rise to a special occasion, as it shows with this 100th anniversary bottling of cabernet - the grape to which it owes its renown. This is a rich, classic, stylish Napa Valley cabernet - accessible but structured, full-bodied but not overstuffed. It's an elegant wine with hints of black currant, smoked meat and black cherry. It isn't inexpensive as red wines go, but for a complex, well-made Napa Valley cabernet, it's downright reasonable. You can drink it now or age it for five to 10 years.