1998 Callaway Chardonnay, Temecula ($10).
Miracle of miracles! Here comes an inexpensive California chardonnay in which you can actually taste the fruit instead of a blast of oak juice. It's not a complex or highfalutin wine, but it offers lively flavors of green apple, peaches and tropical fruit -- all in balance, nothing overblown. There's a clean, crisp finish, an appropriately subtle hint of oak, and it doesn't rely on obscene amounts of residual sugar.