1998 Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet, Coteaux du Languedoc ($6).
Here is a wonderful, dry white wine for uncomplicated quaffing right now. It's fresh, crisp, lively and offers delicious flavors of peaches, pears, herbs and tropical fruit. This is not a wine to store in the cellar. Drink it up before the end of the year as an aperitif or as a companion to seafood.