1998 Quivira Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley ($18).
Wow! Is this a blockbuster sauvignon blanc, or what? Behind the velvety texture and generous oak is a wine with ample pear, peach and fig flavors and a good measure of herbal flavors. This is not your same-old European sauvignon, but a new California interpretation of a grape that reaches high levels on this side of the "pond." Serve it with salmon or other hearty seafood.