1997 Dry Creek Vineyard Zinfandel, Sonoma County ($15).
This rich, chunky, concentrated red wine has a silky feel to go along with its spicy black-cherry flavors. It's a powerful wine that might lull you into the sense that it could age a long time, but in fact it will almost certainly be best over the next three years. Despite its heady 14.5 percent alcohol level, it's a wine in excellent balance. It equals many zinfandels in the $20-$30 range.