1996 Chateau Greysac, Medoc ($15).
During the 1970s, Chateau Greysac made a reputation as an excellent value in red Bordeaux. Its star waned in recent years, but now -- with the need for bargain Bordeaux greater than ever -- Greysac appears to have returned to form. The 1996 might be the property's best wine since 1975. It offers lush black cherry fruit, firm structure and a suppleness that makes it a pleasure to drink young. It offers appealing nuances of pipe tobacco and cedar. Restaurateurs especially should take notice of this satisfying but affordable Bordeaux.