1998 Georges Duboeuf Viognier, Vin de Pays de l'Ardeche ($9).

This exuberantly fruity, fresh wine from the south of France is a magnificent value made from one of the world's great white-wine grapes -- the viognier of the Rhone Valley. Duboeuf's viognier from Ardeche comes close to replicating the classic flavors of Rhone viogniers -- nuts, litchi, coconut, pear, clove, nutmeg and peach to name a few -- for a fraction of the cost. Drink this fragrant, medium-bodied wine young to enjoy its vibrancy. It would be a fine match with salmon or any heartier seafood.