Why can? Y2K, for one. Perhaps you believe the predictions that the new year will bring widespread chaos, with the Y2K computer glitch causing electrical failures and kitchen appliances and ATMs to shut down. You want to be sure you have your own food supply.

Perhaps you plan to take your cue from computers, which, at the turn of the calendar to 1-1-00, may not know whether it's 2000 or 1900. You decide you would rather revisit the past than face the uncertainties of the future.

"Close your eyes and let yourself be transported to a Victorian house, its garden sprawling with vines and bushes from which the bounty will be reaped," write Barry Bluestein and Kevin Morrissey in "Home Made in the Kitchen" (Viking Penguin, 1995). "As the harvest season nears, bushel baskets overflow with the ripe produce to be 'put by' for the long winter to come."

The cookbook authors go on to paint a nostalgic picture of pantry shelves filled with colorful jars of produce ready to be enjoyed and shared in colder months.

They make 1900 sound pretty good, don't they?

But if you're already trimming vegetables, boiling jars and checking seals, you know that the traditional pursuit of canning is as sensible a way to close out this century as it was to start it.

Canning is described as a method of preserving food by hermetically sealing it in glass containers, according to the "New Food Lovers Companion" (Barron's, 1995) by Sharon Tyler Herbst. Jars of food are heated quickly to high temperatures to retain maximum color, flavor and nutrients.

So why don't we call it "jarring"? Evidently, the word can comes from the Middle English word canne, which comes from the Old High German word channa, meaning a jar used to preserve food or other products for later use, explains Jeanne Lesem in "Preserving in Today's Kitchen" (Owl Books, 1997).

Canning is the natural final step for gardeners whose spring efforts yield summer and fall rewards and for those who frequent farmers' markets and pick-your-own patches. Dedicated canners start in the spring with peas and strawberries and work through the squash and apples of fall.

Our ancestors "put food by" during the bountiful months so that when the harsh winter came, the family could eat. Modern food-processing techniques have assured us of a dependable year-round supply of food, but for some folks, the ritual of canning means higher quality and more personal satisfaction than a trip to the grocery store.

"My personal perspective is [gardening] is worth doing whether Y2K happens or not, because you can't get decent stuff in the stores, and you don't know what's being done to the food," says Sharon Carson, who manages a community-supported agriculture garden in Delmar, Del., just north of the Maryland line. "It might be a blessing in disguise for the stores to shut down and people to have to get out and sweat and work a little bit, learn more about where the food comes from."

Sales of canning supplies, such as jars and powdered pectin, remain steady, despite the trend toward prepared foods, says Judy Harrold, manager of consumer affairs for Alltrista Consumer Products Co., which markets Ball and Kerr canning products.

Alltrista has a toll-free consumer line (800-240-3340) that receives about 35,000 calls a year from canners, ranging from the novice who doesn't understand basic terminology to the veteran who can't figure out why an old favorite recipe failed.

Alltrista began taking calls from Y2K worriers in January, but the inquiries seem to have tapered off, Harrold says.

"We were getting a lot of calls specifically related to the Y2K problem, and the most-asked question was about how to can water," she says. (You don't. Clean containers with tight-fitting lids are adequate for storage.)

The company doesn't expect Y2K to cause a major surge in canning -- concerned people who haven't canned will probably find it less work to stock their shelves with store-bought goods -- but it does expect the popularity of canning to continue into the next century and the symbolic start of the new millennium.

Anne Gardon, author of "Preserving for All Seasons" (Firefly Books, 1999), lives on a farm in rural Quebec and isn't concerned about Y2K. She loves canning because it extends the "magic moment" when produce like tomatoes and strawberries are ripe, fresh and in season.

"I make a point of trying to preserve as much as I can of my own produce, to be as self-sufficient as I can," Gardon says.

Her book is divided into four seasonal chapters because she found that canning only in summer turns an enjoyable pastime into too much of a chore. It is better to do a little at a time all year then to pack all the activity into a few hectic months, she says.

"[People] do too much at a time, so that means they are not as careful as they would be if they did only five or six jars. That might bring spoilage, because the jars are not as clean as they should be," Gardon says.

Canners advise making sure jars are properly sealed before storing and discarding any that show signs of spoilage when opened. The deadly botulinus toxin can lurk inside jars with bulging lids or those whose contents appear cloudy or moldy or give off a gas or unpleasant odor when opened. Consult a guide, such as the "Ball Blue Book: Guide to Home Canning, Freezing & Dehydration" (available for $5.95 from Alltrista by calling 800-392-2575), for safety procedures.

If you're stockpiling your canned goods for the anticipated New Year's Day debacle, you probably won't want to open the first jar until that day comes. Whether it brings disaster or routine, you can look forward to eating outstanding homemade foods well into the new year.

If you can bear to part with them earlier, homemade relishes and jams make great hostess or holiday gifts. Dress up the jars with a personalized label (giving yourself credit for your work), accented by a colorful bow, or top jars with a fabric circle secured with rough-hewn twine.

You also could take a shot at a ribbon for your efforts if you enter your canned goods in the Maryland State Fair to be held in Timonium from Aug. 27 to Sept. 6.

Clean, unlabeled jars with screw bands may be entered from 9 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Aug. 24 and from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Aug. 25. Call 410-252-0200 for a free catalog, which details rules, categories and prizes.

Canning Tips

Planning to can? Here are some tips to get you started:

* Take time to learn, then follow canning procedures recommended by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. These straight- forward methods ensure a safe product. Visit the USDA Web site at www.usda.gov and download canning documents from its "News and Information" file, or read the directions usually included with canning products. The "Ball Blue Book," a comprehensive guide to food preservation, is available for $5.95 from Alltrista by calling 800-392-2575.

* Disregard old cookbooks and family recipes that recommend sealing methods such as paraffin, inversion or open kettle, or no sealing at all; the USDA has declared them inadequate for safety. Processing in a boiling-water canner (high-acid foods like tomatoes, jellies and vinegar-spiked relishes) or a steam-pressure canner (for low-acid vegetables) are the only recommended methods.

* If you're uncertain about a procedure, ask for advice. Home economists at county Cooperative Extension Service offices are happy to help, and the Alltrista Home Canning Help Line at 800-240-3340 is open business hours year-round (you can leave a message after-hours).

* Use good-quality canning equipment, from new, clean lids to a reliable pressure canner. Saving a few dollars on equipment isn't worth the risk of food poisoning from improperly sealed food.

* After jars have been processed and have cooled, remove the screw bands and gently clean away any remaining food particles. Check the lid: If it flexes when touched, it hasn't sealed and should be stored in the refrigerator. Store properly sealed jars in a cool, dark, dry place.

* Rotate your canned goods, using the older fruits and vegetables as you add new jars to the pantry. Canned foods begin to lose quality after six to 12 months.

* No matter how much you enjoy gazing at your handiwork, don't forget that the primary purpose of canning is to preserve food until the day you're ready to eat it. Anne Gardon, author of "Preserving for All Seasons" (Firefly Books, 1999), says she made that mistake when she started. "I ended up in March with my freezer still full of stuff, and my cupboards the same, and the fresh produce was starting to come in. Half the stuff ended up on the compost pile."

-- Tracy Sahler

Green Beans Oregano

Makes about 6 pints

6 pounds fresh green beans

1 medium onion, sliced and separated into rings

white pepper

oregano

Prepare home canning jars (see note) and lids according to manufacturer's instructions.

Wash and drain beans. String, trim ends, and break or cut beans into 2-inch pieces. Combine green beans and onion rings in a large sauce pot; cover with boiling water and boil 5 minutes. Drain. Pack hot green beans and onions into hot jars, leave 1-inch head space. Add / teaspoon of white pepper and 1/4 teaspoon oregano to each jar. Ladle boiling water over beans and onions, leaving 1-inch head space. Remove air bubbles with a nonmetallic spatula. Wipe jar rim clean. Place lid on jar with sealing compound next to glass. Screw band down evenly and firmly just until a point of resistance is met -- fingertip tight.

Process jars 20 minutes at 10 pounds' pressure in steam- pressure canner.

Note: How many jars you need depends on what sizes you use. Canning jars typically are sold in quart, pint and half-pint measures.

-- From Alltrista Consumer Products Co.

Home-style Vegetable Soup

Makes about 8 quarts

2 quarts tomatoes, peeled, cored and chopped (about 5 pounds)

1 1/2 quarts carrots, peeled and sliced (about 2 pounds)

1 1/2 quarts potatoes, peeled and cubed (about 3 pounds)

1 quart peas

1 quart green beans

2 cups onions, chopped (about 2 medium)

2 cups celery, sliced (about 4 stalks)

1 cup red bell pepper, chopped

1 1/2 quarts vegetable stock

1/2 cup minced parsley

2 bay leaves

salt and pepper to taste

Prepare home canning jars (see note) and lids according to manufacturer's instructions.

Combine all ingredients in a large sauce pot. Bring mixture to a boil; reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. Remove bay leaves. Ladle hot soup into hot jars, leaving 1-inch head space. Remove air bubbles with a nonmetallic spatula. Wipe jar rim clean. Place lid on jar with sealing compound next to glass. Screw band down evenly and firmly just until a point of resistance is met -- fingertip tight.

Process pints and quarts 40 minutes at 10 pounds' pressure in a steam-pressure canner.

Note: How many jars you need depends on what sizes you use. Canning jars typically are sold in quart, pint and half-pint measures.

-- From Alltrista Consumer Products Co.

Apple-Lemon Marmalade

Makes four 16-ounce or eight 8-ounce jars

4 lemons

3 cups water

3 pounds cooking apples (about 12 medium)

6 cups sugar

6 mint sprigs, tied in cheesecloth

Cut lemons in half and slice thinly, removing pits. Soak in water overnight. Cook over moderate heat until peel is tender, about 10 minutes.

Peel and core apples. Cut in thin slices. Combine apples, lemons with their liquid, sugar and mint. Bring to a boil while stirring. Reduce heat and cook until thick, about 30 minutes.

Remove mint. Ladle into hot, sterilized jars and seal. (To meet U.S. Department of Agriculture guidelines, process jars 10 minutes in a boiling-water bath. Let cool 12 hours to 24 hours, remove bands, check seal and make sure jars are clean before storing.)

-- From "Preserving for All Seasons" by Anne Gardon (Firefly Books, 1999)

Pepper-Onion Relish

Makes about 6 pints

2 quarts chopped sweet green peppers (about 10 medium)

2 quarts chopped sweet red peppers (about 10 medium)

1 1/2 cups chopped onions (about 1 1/2 medium)

2 hot red peppers, finely chopped

4 teaspoons mixed pickling spices

1 1/2 cups sugar

4 teaspoons salt

3 1/2 cups vinegar

Cover vegetables with boiling water; let stand 5 minutes. Drain; cover again with boiling water and let stand 10 minutes. Drain. Tie pickling spices in a spice bag. Combine spice bag, sugar, salt and vinegar; simmer 15 minutes. Add drained vegetables; simmer 10 minutes. Remove spice bag. Bring mixture to a boil. Pack hot relish into hot jars (see note), leaving 1/4 -inch head space. Adjust two-piece caps. Process 15 minutes in a boiling-water canner.

Note: How many jars you need depends on what sizes you use. Canning jars typically are sold in quart, pint and half-pint measures.

-- From the "Ball Blue Book: Guide to Home Canning, Freezing & Dehydration"