1994 Candido Salice Salentino Riserva ($7).

This southern Italian red is a whole lot of wine for a fairly modest price. It's especially notable because it has a good deal of maturity, a boon to consumers who dislike the heavy tannins of new red wines. The Candido is a medium- to full-bodied Salice Salentino with spicy, leathery, meaty nuances and a generous dollop of black cherrylike flavor. The grip and intensity are impressive for a wine in this price class, and there's no reason to hurry to drink it up. This exceptional value is worth buying by the case.