1995 Marques de Arienzo Crianza Rioja ($10).

Sweet oak and black currant flavors dominate this well-made Spanish red wine from a vintage that is considered excellent in the Rioja region. It is smooth and accessible now but could improve for several years. This Rioja can stretch to go with a wide range of foods from steak to roast chicken. Do not be tempted to spend more and buy the Arienzo 1994 Reserva ($15) or 1991 Gran Reserva ($25), the winery's other current releases. The extra aging in oak took more away in fruit than it added in complexity. The cheapest of the three is the best.

Pub Date: 08/04/99