Summer is the prime season for coleslaw, a deceptively simple dish that has almost as many incarnations as there are cooks to prepare it.

There's slaw with scallions, slaw with hot peppers, slaw with bell peppers, slaw with crab meat and slaw with citrus zest -- and those are just a few of the variations. Coleslaw recipes pop up around the world -- from Baltimore to Latin America and from France to Russia.

It seems almost every culture has a version of this crispy dish, probably because cabbage -- the traditional ingredient -- is among the oldest foods cultivated by mankind. It keeps well, and it can be found in virtually every climate.

"Cabbage grows everywhere, and it's cheap," says Steven Raichlen, the Miami-based author of "The Barbecue Bible" (Workman, 1998, $18.95 paperback) and "Healthy Latin Cooking" (Rodale, 1998, $29.95).

Cabbage is a humble member of the brassica family, which includes broccoli, cauliflower, mustard, radishes and turnips. It can be cooked for dishes like sauerkraut or stuffed cabbage. Or it can be used raw, as in coleslaw and other salads.

Slaw, in particular, seems to have universal appeal. "It's cold. So it's nice to serve with hot food," Raichlen says. "It's refreshing."

That makes it "pretty constant" along the world's barbecue trail, he says.

Food scientist and cookbook author Shirley Corriher of Atlanta says many people are attracted to coleslaw because of its texture. "It's so crisp and fresh," she says.

Everyone seems to have a favorite variation.

"People love our coleslaw," says Rose Cernak of family-owned Obrycki's restaurant in Fells Point. "We've always made our own. A lot of slaw is too sweet for me, and a lot of it is too watery."

To avoid sogginess, the restaurant salts the cabbage, then lets it sit before draining it well. "The most important thing is doing the cabbage separately," Cernak says.

Coleslaw dressings are divided into two camps: mayonnaise-based or vinegar-based.

Raichlen says mayonnaise-based dressings are unheard of in Europe. "The only place you find mayo-based coleslaw is in North America," he says. And even here, "creamy coleslaw is more of a Southern tradition."

The T. Marzetti Co. of Columbus, Ohio, which makes a creamy slaw dressing, concurs. In terms of consumption, creamy dressing sales follow a curving line from Ohio, Indiana and Kentucky to Georgia and the Carolinas, says Schrade Radtke, senior marketing manager.

He says the company's dressing, which is based on an 1896 recipe by Theresa Marzetti of Columbus, Ohio, sells all year long, but sales spike at Memorial Day, the Fourth of July and Labor Day -- "the peak picnic holidays."

Raichlen says the first American recipe for coleslaw appeared in "American Cookery" by Amelia Simmons, which was published in 1796. It was one of the first cookbooks written for women for domestic use.

"What made the book remarkable," Raichlen says, "is that [the author] included recipes for things like cookies and coleslaw -- which shows there was a developing American cuisine."

But the words we use for coleslaw have a Dutch origin: kool (cabbage) and sla (salad). Dutch immigrants brought the dish to the American Coloniees around 1627, according to "The Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook," edited by Susan Westmoreland (Hearst Books, 1997, $30).

The book has tips for slicing cabbage and other vegetables. It advises using a stainless-steel knife to avoid discoloring vegetables and not slicing vegetables until they are needed to avoid a loss of vitamin C.

If you must shred in advance, the books says, tightly seal the shredded vegetables in a plastic bag and keep them in the refrigerator. Also, to shred vegetables, you can use the coarse side of a grater, an adjustable blade slicer (called a mandoline) or a food processor with the shredding disk.

Although almost all slaw recipes call for cabbage, it isn't required. Some people use apples, broccoli or brussels sprouts. Also, coleslaw dressing can be used in other dishes, such as chicken salad and potato salad, Radtke says.

In addition to being paired with barbecue meats, slaw also works well with fish. New York chef and restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten of Jean Georges, Vong and Jojo likes to use his version of slaw as an accompaniment to grilled tuna or swordfish.

But no matter how it is served, Radtke says, "It's a summer standard."

Obrycki's Coleslaw

Serves 8

1 1/2 pounds cabbage, finely shredded

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/4 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup white vinegar

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 tablespoon minced onion

1/4 cup grated carrots

Combine cabbage and salt; let sit for 1 hour. Squeeze out the liquid. Combine with all remaining ingredients and chill before serving.

Central American Slaw

Serves 8

4 cups green cabbage, thinly shredded

2 carrots, shredded

2-4 jalapeno peppers, minced (see note)

4-5 tablespoons white vinegar

1 tablespoon salt, plus more if desired

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

In a large bowl, combine the cabbage, carrots, peppers, 4 tablespoons vinegar, 1 tablespoon salt, sugar and black pepper. Toss to mix. Taste and sprinkle with more salt and vinegar, if desired.

Note: Wear plastic gloves while handling the peppers.

-- From "Healthy Latin Cooking" by Steven Raichlen

Five-Vegetable Coleslaw

Serves 6 to 8

8 cups (approximately 2 pounds) cabbage, shredded

1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced

2 celery ribs, julienne

1 1/2 medium red bell pepper, fine julienne

1/2 medium green bell pepper, fine julienne

1 large or 2 medium carrots, shredded

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Dressing (recipe follows)

In a large mixing bowl, combine the vegetables, parsley and salt, and let stand for 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and set aside. Add the Dressing to the vegetables and toss gently to combine. Cover and store in refrigerator overnight.

-- From "New Recipes From Quilt Country" by Marcia Adams (Clarkson Potter, 1997, $30)

Dressing

Makes about 2 cups

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice (approximately 4 large lemons)

1 1/2 cups mayonnaise

3/4 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons black pepper

1/2 cup sugar

1 tablespoon celery seeds

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons cider vinegar

In a medium bowl, whisk together lemon juice, mayonnaise, salt, pepper, sugar, celery seeds, mustard seeds and vinegar; blend well.

-- From "New Recipes From Quilt Country" by Marcia Adams (Clarkson Potter, 1997, $30)

Island-Style Coleslaw

Serves 6 to 8

1/4 cup green bell pepper, chopped

4 cups Chinese won bok cabbage (see note)

1/4 bunch watercress, chopped

8 stuffed olives, sliced

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon celery seed

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

3 tablespoons salad oil

1/3 cup vinegar

1 tablespoon chopped pimento

salt and pepper to taste

Place the green pepper, cabbage, watercress and olives in a large bowl. Cover and chill. Combine the other ingredients in a jar. Cover. Before serving, shake the jar and pour the dressing over the vegetables. Toss until combined.

Note: Won bok may be available at Asian markets, or you can substitute regular green cabbage. For crunchy coleslaw, cut the cabbage in half and soak it in salted ice water for about 1 hour; drain well. Chill the cabbage and cut it into thin strips.

-- From "Sam Choy's Island Flavors" by Sam Choy (Hyperion, 1999, $27.95)

Savoy Slaw With Citrus, Ginger and Mustard

Serves 4

1 tablespoon dried ground yellow mustard

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon water

1 teaspoon grated or minced lemon zest

1 teaspoon grated or minced orange zest

1 teaspoon grated or minced ginger

1/4 cup rice or other mild vinegar

salt and freshly ground pepper

1 teaspoon cracked and minced coriander seeds (see note)

1 teaspoon honey

1 small head savoy, napa or other cabbage, or half of a larger head

In a small bowl, mix together the mustard, sugar and 1 tablespoon water. Stir to blend and set aside.

In a large bowl, mix together the zests, ginger, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, coriander and honey. Stir well to blend all ingredients.

In a food processor, with a grater or with a knife, shred enough cabbage to make 3 cups. Toss in the bowl with the citrus-zest mixture.

To serve, place a portion of slaw on each plate and drizzle with a little of the mustard mixture.

Note: To crack coriander seeds, use the flat side of a knife.

-- From "Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home With a Four-Star Chef" by Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Mark Bittman (Broadway Books, 1998, $35)

Crab Coleslaw

Serves 4 as a first course, 2 as a main course

1 1/2 to 2 cups cooked crab meat (fresh or prepared)

1 small red bell pepper

1 small yellow bell pepper

1 small green bell pepper

1 small (about 1 1/2 pounds) savoy cabbage

1 small tomato, peeled, seeded and diced

Russian-French Dressing (recipe follows)

Pick over the crab, shred it and place it in a bowl.

For the peppers, preheat the broiler. Arrange the red, yellow and green peppers on a tray below the heat source. Broil the peppers, turning them until blackened on all sides. Place them in a plastic bag for at least 10 minutes to soften their skin. Peel the peppers using your fingers or a small knife. Remove the core, seeds and veins, using a paper towel as an aid. Slice the peppers lengthwise into 1/4-inch-wide strips, then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch dice. Place in a small bowl.

For the cabbage, reserve 4 outer large dark green cabbage leaves. Core and finely shred enough of the remaining cabbage to equal 3 cups.

Prepare the dressing (recipe follows).

To serve, mix the crab meat with the shredded cabbage, 1/2 of the peppers and 1/2 of the tomato in a large bowl. Stir in enough dressing to coat lightly. Place the reserved cabbage leaves on four small or two large plates. Divide the salad among the cabbage leaves. Sprinkle with reserved tomato and peppers. Serve immediately.

Russian-French dressing

Makes about half a cup

1/3 cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons ketchup

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon fresh, minced tarragon or other fresh herb

1 teaspoon cognac or bourbon

1 large clove garlic, pressed

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

2 drops hot sauce, such as Tabasco

salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Whisk the mayonnaise, ketchup, lemon juice, tarragon, cognac, garlic, curry powder and hot sauce in a medium bowl until well-blended. Season with salt and pepper.

-- Adapted from "Michel Richard's Home Cooking With a French Accent" by Michel Richard with Judy Zeidler and Jan Weimer (William Morrow, 1993, $30)

Pub Date: 07/28/99