1998 Preston Vineyards Vin Gris, Dry Creek Valley ($10).

What, another pink wine? Just weeks after recommending the Simi Rose of Cabernet Sauvignon? If the charge is fondness for bone-dry, crisp, flavorful and refreshing young rose wines, my plea is guilty. Especially in the case of the Preston, which is one of the best I've ever tasted. Made from a blend of grapes grown in Provence (cinsault, mourvedre and grenache, if you must know), this wine faithfully replicates the style of the region's celebrated pink wines of Bandol. It offers delicious strawberry overtones, with hints of herbes de Provence. This sophisticated, classy wine can be served by itself on a hot summer evening or matched with chicken, salmon or ham. Drink before Labor Day to capture its freshness. Preston, by the way, is doing great things with white wine, too.

Pub Date: 07/21/99