1998 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages, flower label ($8).

No, you can't call this a hot, new discovery. Year in and year out, Georges Duboeuf produces an ocean of Beaujolais-Villages and ships it to just about every restaurant and liquor store in the United States. And you know what? It's always good. Better in some years, as it is in 1998, but always a racy, fragrant, floral, chill-able red wine that's just perfect for washing down burgers or chicken hot off the grill. It's such a great value that it's easy to lose sight of the fact that this is great winemaking on a mass scale. Long live the "king of Beaujolais."

Pub Date: 07/07/99