1997 Murphy-Goode Barrel-Fermented Pinot Blanc, Russian River Valley ($13).

You could call this an un-chardonnay: similar in body, with a touch of oak, but a subtly different flavor profile. It's a dry wine with flavors of lemon, peach and pear, and notes of mineral, herbs and mint. Its excellent bite gives it a bit of attitude, and the length of the finish is impressive.