1998 Boordy Vineyards Chardonnay, Maryland ($11).

Long a leader in producing high-quality white wines from French-American hybrid grapes, Boordy is making impressive progress with European varietals such as chardonnay. This medium-bodied chardonnay, which draws heavily on Boordy's newly restored Burkittsville vineyard, offers fresh apple and lemon flavors with good acidity, a well-balanced touch of oak and a peppery edge. It's a wine that Marylanders can serve with pride to out-of-state visitors. Ham or salmon are probably the best matches, but it also can complement lighter seafood or poultry.

Pub Date: 06/09/99