1996 Parducci Petite Sirah, Mendocino County ($9).

This medium-bodied red wine isn't as burly as many petite sirahs, but it delivers more than its share of value. There are hearty flavors of black pepper, blackberry, smoked meat and even a touch of blueberry. Unlike some wines from this underrated grape, it is fully ready to drink at a young age. It has good acidity and should meld well with grilled steak or lamb.