In elementary school, Paul A. Weykamp was occasionally ostracized for bringing Nutella, Europe's beloved hazelnut-cocoa spread, in his lunch.

"It was quasi-embarrassing and at the same time it tasted good, so it was not such a big deal," says Weykamp, 41, the principal attorney for his own downtown Baltimore law office.

The Sparks resident grew up with Nutella (pronounced Noo-tella). His parents are from Holland, a brave Nutella world, where the chocolaty wonder leaves peanut butter in the dust. Nutella is similarly cherished throughout Europe and is the No. 1 spread in Italy and Germany.

Nutella has been available in the United States for almost 15 years, and approximately 4.5 million pounds of Nutella are sold here annually. Worldwide, Nutella outsells all peanut butter brands, say representatives of Ferrero, which manufactures Nutella in the United States and abroad.

Here, Nutella is a nichey specialty spread most commonly found in gourmet shops.

Baltimore Nutella-heads can get their fix at such stores as Eddie's, Super Fresh, Giant and Safeway in the bread-spread aisle, where peanut butter resides. But Nutella, which costs around $4 for a 13-ounce jar, often is shoved into an inconspicuous corner.

Peanut-butter prejudice in Europe relegates America's sandwich sweetheart to the same dark recesses that Nutella occupies here, according to Karen Carpino, a Loyola student who became a Nutella junkie during a year in Belgium.

Nutella has not hit the sandwich-spread mainstream in the United States. Yet, those who know and love Nutella are a discerning, savvy subculture. They revel in the smooth texture, subdued sweetness and almost European quirkiness.

"It's become kind of a delicacy," says Carpino, 21.

Those unfamiliar with it are likely to be apprehensive, even hostile toward the curious condiment.

"They're like, 'What are you eating? What is that? What? Chocolate?' I'm like, 'You want to try it?' and they're like, 'No,' " Carpino says.

Now a Nutella loyalist who prefers her Nutella on fresh baked bread and molasses cookies, Carpino nevertheless understands why Americans may be threatened by it.

"The practice of spreading chocolate on bread seemed a little odd to me until I found myself doing it as well," she says.

In Europe, sweets and meals aren't segregated the way they are in the United States. A common snack is pain au chocolat, a chunk of chocolate between two pieces of bread. And according to Weykamp, a traditional Dutch breakfast consists of licorice-flavored anisette powder, chocolate flakes, bread and, of course, Nutella.

Hence, the true glory of Nutella: It is essentially frosting, yet it is also food. Even the jar shows Nutella spread on a piece of bread. But you needn't limit your Nutella experience to bread. Spread it on pretzels, crepes, animal cookies, graham crackers, bananas, matzo or wherever your Nutella adventures may take you.

"It is sweeter than peanut butter, but it's still an acceptable thing to eat," says Suzanne Guy, merchandising director for Eddie's of Roland Park. "People can make that leap without that guilt."

Nutella has spawned numerous knockoffs, including Cadbury's Chocolate Spread and Milky Way chocolate-and-vanilla spread. Nutella's latest gooey challenger is Holland's duo, which is very similar to Milky Way. Marshmallow Fluff and Goober Grape, a peanut butter and jelly hybrid, have a bit of the Nutella quality about them as well.

A devoted Nutellite isn't likely to be seduced by the creamy competition.

"Believe me, people don't walk into the store and say, 'Where's the Milky Way?' " Guy says.

Carpino understands. "Classic Nutella is definitely it."

After all, can Goober Grape boast such a rich history?

In late 1940s Italy, cocoa was scarce and chocolate was limited to the privileged classes. To satisfy the national candy craving, pastry maker Pietro Ferrero combined hazelnuts, cocoa and oil into a spread, which then was called Supercrema Gianduja. Local food stores would sell a "smearing" of it to children for a penny. In 1964, the name was simplified to Nutella, which emphasized the hazelnut accents. To this day, the Ferrero family still takes part in its namesake company.

Nutella neophytes ready to dip into the grand tradition should know a few things before taking the plunge.

Do not refrigerate Nutella. It will harden to the consistency of a trilobite fossil.

"It kind of crystallizes," Guy says.

"Do Not Refrigerate" is written on the label, but if you first encounter Nutella in Europe, such a warning does not help when it is written in Dutch.

Carpino advises Nutella novices to stir before eating to ensure maximum smoothness.

If you feel isolated and misunderstood as a Nutella lover, do not eat an entire jar of Nutella in a single sitting. This is Nutella abuse. It will not solve anything.

Instead, drop the spoon and hook up to the Internet where you will find fellow cyber-sweet tooths fervently spreading the gospel of Nutella. To begin your Nutella Net odyssey, punch the word Nutella into your favorite search engine to find poems, recipes, discussion forums and more.

Such a strong Nutella support system did not exist when Weykamp was a schoolboy. Now, perhaps, youngsters with innovative lunches will be spared his torment.

"Its recognition is long overdue," he says.

Nutella Mousse

4 servings (or 1, if you're having a really bad day)

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup Nutella

1/4 teaspoon instant coffee granules

whipped cream, optional

Combine heavy cream and coffee granules in a small mixing bowl. Stir until dissolved, about 5 minutes. Add Nutella. Beat with electric mixer on medium for 1 minute. Stop mixer, scrape sides and bottom of bowl, and continue beating on medium just until beaters leave impression (very soft peaks), about 1 minute. Mousse will seem too soft, but will stiffen when chilled. Divide evenly into individual serving dishes, and chill at least 4 hours. If desired, top with whipped cream just before serving.

-- From www.swampfox .demon.co.uk/utlah/cookbook /index. html

Banana Chocolate Chimichangas

1 serving

banana

flour tortilla

Nutella

cinnamon and sugar mix

Place banana in tortilla shell. Spread Nutella on banana. Roll banana and Nutella in the flour tortilla.

Seal edges with water as though frying a won ton and deep-fry in oil until tortilla is crispy and blistered. Drain; then roll in a cinnamon and sugar mix.

-- From www.swampfox .demon.co.uk/utlah/cookbook /index. html

Nutella Roll

Makes 12 slices

2 sheets sushi nori

1/2 cup Nutella

1 cup cooked Sushi Rice (see below)

Heat nori in 350-degree oven to soften slightly, about 3 to 4 minutes. Working with 1 sheet of nori at a time, with shiny side facing down and with long side facing you, spread 1/2 cup rice (see recipe) in a layer on each sheet, leaving a 1/2 -inch border on long sides.

Spread equal amounts of Nutella in a line across middle of rice. Roll together and cut each roll into 6 equal slices.

Sushi Rice,

Makes 4 cups

2 cups short-grain rice (Kokuho Rose or Nishiki)

2 cups water

1/4 cup rice vinegar

3 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

Wash rice until water runs clear; drain in a colander. Transfer rice to a pot or electric rice cooker and add water. Bring water to a boil. Simmer over low heat, allowing rice to steam for 15 minutes, with the cover on at all times. Mix rice vinegar, sugar and salt. With a wooden spoon, fold vinegar mixture into rice; avoid smashing grains. Spread rice on baking pan to cool.

-- From "The Best 50 Sushi Rolls" (Bristol Publishing, 1999)