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Cinema paradise; Whirlwind: A dizzying array of movies descends upon Baltimore for the new Maryland Film Festival, starting tonight. Here are a few suggestions to help you shape four perfect days in dreamland.

THE BALTIMORE SUN

After weeks of anticipation, it's finally here: Opening night of the new Maryland Film Festival, which will unspool starting tonight at the Senator Theatre with a gala screening of Barry Levinson's home-movie documentary, "Diner Guys."

But that's the easy part. "Diner Guys," which traces the lives of the men who inspired Levinson's 1982 movie "Diner" over nine years, is the only thing playing tonight (the screening will be followed by a question-and-answer session with Levinson, then with a block party at the Charles Theatre on Charles Street). For three days starting tomorrow, expect a frustrating amount of hair-tearing when it comes time to decide which film to see.

More than 50 films will be shown throughout the long weekend, many of them only once, creating quandaries of Solomonic proportions. How to choose, for example, between a big-screen showing of "Duck Soup" and the rarely seen 1940 classic "Pastor Hall"? How can any self-respecting cinephile possibly choose between seeing underground auteur Adolfas Mekas' "Hallelujah the Hills" -- an antic homage to cinema -- and a screening of "The Leopard" -- the uncut, un-dubbed version! -- introduced by painter Donald Sultan? And just how long does it take to drive from the Charles to the Orpheum?

We can't answer the last question (we'll be finding out ourselves over the course of the next few days), but we can offer some guidance. We've come up with some suggestions regarding how to map out your days at the festival, designed to maximize the number and diversity of films seen.

Bear in mind that the festival has left several slots open to re-screen films that prove to be audience favorites, so don't make that angry phone call yet. And remember the cardinal rule of any festival: an open mind and a flexible temperament guarantee a good time.

Herewith, The Sun's idea of three perfect days at the Maryland Film Festival. And remember, all times are subject to change.

Friday

This being Day One of the real festival (now that the Opening Night festivities are over), we're going to try and ease you into things. Which means a day heavy on eclectic (from war films to exploitation flix), but light on shoe leather (you won't have to set foot outside the Charles).

Kick off things at 11:30 a.m. with "Pastor Hall," a rarely seen British war film from 1940 (here in a restored, uncut print) that was essentially banned from American theaters upon its release. Although its champions included no lesser a figure than Eleanor Roosevelt, its depiction of the Nazi concentration camps -- then only a horrible rumor to many -- was thought too strong for American audiences. "Pastor Hall" is based on the true story of Pastor Martin Niemuller, sent to Dachau for criticizing the Nazi Party. Director Ray Boulting's almost half-century career would later include Peter Sellers and Goldie Hawn in "There's a Girl In My Soup."

At 2:30 p.m., Baltimorean Lisa Lewenz's "Letter Without Words" uses home-movie footage shot by her grandmother to look at life among the Jewish population of 1930s Germany. That's preceded by director Mark Pellington's "Father's Daze," a portrait of his father, Baltimore Colts great Bill Pellington and his struggle with Alzheimer's disease.

There's some time between shows here, so it might be a good idea to grab a quick bite (food will be available at the theater) before the 4 p.m. screening of Baltimore filmmaker Paul Zinder's "Mom Mom Loves Herbert," a multi-generational look at his family prompted by an examination of his parents' mixed marriage (one's Jewish, the other's Catholic).

The fare's been pretty heavy so far, but that's going to change quickly. At 5:30 p.m., those who don't offend easily will want to sample exploitation mistress Doris Wishman's "Nude On the Moon," as two guys make themselves a rocket ship, blast off for the moon and discover it's home to a giant nudist colony! See this, and ponder how it could have been excluded from the American Film Institute's best-of list. (Bonus: Wishman herself is scheduled to be there as host for the screening).

Next up may be the highlight of the entire festival, as John Waters introduces one of his favorite films at 8 p.m. -- Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton and Noel Coward (!) unwittingly combining to produce a bad-taste classic, "Boom!" (based on a Tennessee Williams play, no less). Waters says he was once invited to a party at Taylor's and told her how much he loved the film; she regarded him as one would a stalker, and he's never been invited back. Who needs a better recommendation?

After (finally) grabbing some dinner, it's time for the nightcap, an 11:30 p.m. double-feature that begins with Mike Mitchell's short film, "Herd," the tale of a fry cook and an almond-eyed alien visitor. Your day at the festival ends with Canadian director John Paizs' "Crime Wave," with Paizs and Baltimore underground auteur Skizz Cyzyk as hosts. Says festival organizer Jed Dietz, "God knows what this thing is going to be like."

Saturday

Start the day with a 10 a.m. screening of "American Hollow," Rory Kennedy's documentary about a family in Appalachia staying together in the face of poverty, displacement and an embattled way of life. Kennedy, whose big sister happens to be Lt. Gov. Kathleen Kennedy Townsend, will introduce her film and answer questions after the screening.

After "American Hollow," run out to the Charles lobby to grab a cup of coffee, then come right back in to see "The Brandon Teena Story" at noon. Another nonfiction film, "Brandon Teena" is about the engrossing case of a young Nebraska woman who was murdered when she was discovered to be "passing" as a man. (Meanwhile, pray that "Hallelujah the Hills," which has gone virtually unseen since its release in 1963, will rate an extra screening on Saturday or Sunday.)

Luckily, you won't have far to go to see our next choice, which starts right on the heels of "Brandon Teena": "The Leopard," Luchino Visconti's lush adaptation of Giuseppe de Lampedusa's epic novel, starts at 1:30 p.m. and is a must for several reasons. One, the festival is showing a print that is subtitled, not dubbed like the original release. Two, it's being introduced by painter Donald Sultan, who will no doubt bring extraordinary insight to its spectacular, painterly visual style. One plus two equals three, which is that this is truly a once-in-a-lifetime event.

When "The Leopard" ends at 4:30, you'll need a breather. Make your way to Fells Point, find parking, pop into Bertha's for some mussels and a pint, then amble over to the Orpheum, which is showing "Brakhage," a documentary about the influential avant-garde filmmaker, at 7 p.m.

Young people will want to stay at the Orpheum to catch a program of short films by Baltimore filmmaker Martha Colburn, whose work is visually brilliant, politically trenchant, always imaginative and usually provocative.

Colburn's films will be followed by the feature "Mary Jane's Not a Virgin Anymore," Sarah Jacobson's piquant, sexual-coming-of-age tale about a girl growing up in the Midwest.

Really young people, or anyone lucky enough to be sailing under a second wind, will want to rush up to the Charles to see the last screening of the day. "Meeting People Is Easy," which starts at midnight, follows the band Radiohead as it embarks on a grueling world tour. It was a big hit at this year's South by Southwest Film Festival, where it made its world debut.

Sunday

All you out there who believe in fairies, clap your hands real loud and head down to the Charles for the festival's closing day. The schedule kicks off at 10 a.m. with a real treat, the 1924 silent version of "Peter Pan," complete with an 11-piece orchestra. This is how the silent cinema was meant to be experienced!

Things get a little complicated now, so pay attention. At noon, a shorts program, also at the Charles, should offer all sorts of undiscovered (and perhaps unpolished) gems. Here's betting you'll find something you like.

That program is scheduled to run until 1:30 p.m., but check your watch; at 1 p.m., also at the Charles, is a screening of Steve Yeager's delightful homage to John Waters and the filming of "Pink Flamingos." Seeing "Divine Trash" is a treat, especially with a hometown crowd. But if you leave the shorts program early, be quiet and considerate (maybe leave between shorts).

You may miss some of the discussion that's sure to follow "Divine Trash," but at 2:30 p.m., the Charles plays host to Reed Paget's "Amerikan Passport," winner of the Best Documentary prize at this year's Sundance Festival. Paget spent 10 years shooting this globe-hopping film that takes viewers to war zones, ancient ruins and all sorts of exotic places. A sure sign this film should be intriguing: Paget's earned a reputation as a Gen-X version of Michael Moore ("Roger & Me," "TV Nation").

At 4 p.m., you've got to make a tough choice. You can either see one of the greatest films ever made, 1930's "All Quiet On the Western Front," in a restored print almost as vivid as the day it was released, or wait until 4:30 and catch "The Cool World," a 1962 documentary-style film about youths in Harlem that all-around-cool guy Marc Steiner says changed his life. Since he'll be there serving as host for the screening, it might be interesting to hear him say what about the film spoke to him so loudly.

Sad as it is to say, the time has finally come to say goodbye to the 1999 Maryland Film Festival. May we recommend bidding it a fond farewell by going down to the National Aquarium for an 8 p.m. showing of "Jazzman" (aka "Sculptor With Sound"), featuring saxophonist David Murray in a performance filmed over five days at the Montreal Jazz Festival? Murray and director Alan Collins are scheduled to be on hand.

THE FACTS

What: The Maryland Film Festival

When: Today through Sunday (screening times subject to change)

Where: The Charles, 1711 N. Charles St., and the Orpheum, 1726 Thames St. (Screenings will also be held at the Senator Theatre, 5904 York Road; Shriver Hall on the Johns Hopkins University campus, 3400 N. Charles St.; and the National Aquarium in Baltimore, 501 E. Pratt St.)

Tickets: All-access passes guarantee admittance to every screening, party and panel and may be purchased by calling 410-752-8083. Individual tickets are $10. They may be purchased the day before by calling ProTix at 410-481-6500 or the day of the screening at the venue box office. For schedule and program updates visit the festival's Web site at http://www.mdfilmfest.com

Parking: While some arrangements have been made especially for the festival (see map), parking is limited. You may want to consider taking public transportation, including Light Rail.

Pub Date: 04/22/99

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