By itself, the lemon, unlike so many other fruits, has no business being a dessert. But since its very sourness is a perfect match for sweet ingredients, the lemon is a tasty launching point for pies, curds, puddings, tarts and cakes.

Sugar is the first ingredient that comes to mind when trying to soften that lemon tang, but coconut or white chocolate can mellow the tartness and acidity as well. Naturally sweet or rich nuts also make a good foil to lemon.

Lemon also forms a nice partnership with other fruits. Adding lemon to sweetened fruit brings out the fruit flavor, while mixing lemon juice with peeled pears or apples keeps them white. Even delicate cream fillings become quite zesty when given a lemon boost.

Other attractions? Lemons are available all year long, but some are better than others. Big lemons often have thick skins and are dry inside. Instead, look for average-size, smooth, thin-skinned lemons that are free of soft spots and yield to gentle pressure. These are likely to give the most juice.

Store lemons in the refrigerator, but bring them to room temperature before squeezing them so they release more juice. Rolling lemons on a hard surface, while pressing down on them with the palm of your hand, is another trick to help them give off their juice.

The most powerful lemon flavor is concentrated in the yellow peel, so the grated rind can add a hefty lemon boost to a dessert. Avoid the white pith, though, which is bitter. A zester is a handy tool for grating lemon peel, but a common four-sided grater works just as well.

Remember to grate the rind from lemons before cutting them for the juice. The juice you can squeeze from each lemon varies. On the average, you can expect 3 tablespoons of juice from one lemon and about 1 1/2 teaspoons of grated peel.

Also, wash lemons before using them. This is especially important when you are using the peel. For easier grating of the peel, dry washed lemons before grating them.

Lemon-Almond Macaroon Pie

Serves 8 to 10

1 unbaked cold pie crust in 10-inch pie pan

1 1/2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

3 large eggs

1 large egg, separated

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3/4 teaspoon almond extract

1 tablespoon amaretto liqueur

1 1/4 cups ground blanched almonds

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened

powdered sugar for dusting top

Press piece of heavy aluminum foil into crust and over edges of pan. Fill with raw rice, dried beans or metal pie weights. Bake at 400 degrees 10 minutes. Carefully remove pie weights and aluminum foil. Bake 5 minutes longer. Set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees.

Whisk lemon peel, 3/4 cup granulated sugar, 1 egg, 1 egg yolk, lemon juice and flour until smooth. Set aside.

In food processor, process remaining 2 eggs, 1 egg white and salt to combine. With machine running, add remaining 3/4 cup granulated sugar and process until fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add vanilla, almond extract, amaretto, ground almonds and butter and process until combined thoroughly. Pour half of almond mixture into partially baked crust. Drizzle over half of reserved lemon mixture. Pour remaining almond mixture over lemon and drizzle remaining lemon mixture over top.

Bake at 350 degrees until pie is set and top is light brown, about 30 minutes. Cool at room temperature. Dust top with powdered sugar. Cover and refrigerate until cold. Serve cold for the best flavor. Store in refrigerator up to 3 days.

Vanilla and Raspberry Cake With Lemon Cream Cheese Frosting

Serves 9

CAKE:

1 (10-ounce) box sweetened frozen raspberries, defrosted and drained

1 1/2 cups cake flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

1 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup canola or corn oil

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3/4 teaspoon pure almond extract

1/2 cup milk

FROSTING:

1/2 cup (1 stick) soft unsalted butter

6 ounces soft cream cheese, do not use reduced fat

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

2 3/4 cups powdered sugar, sifted

Butter bottom and sides of 8-inch square pan. Line bottom of pan with parchment or wax paper and butter paper.

To prepare cake, use back of spoon to press raspberries through strainer to remove seeds. Measure 2 tablespoons strained puree into small bowl and set aside. Save remaining puree for another use.

Sift together flour, baking powder and salt and set aside.

In large bowl of electric mixer, beat eggs and granulated sugar on medium speed until smooth, 1 minute. On low speed mix in oil, vanilla and almond extract until oil is incorporated. Mix in half of flour mixture just until incorporated. Mix in milk. Add remaining flour, stopping mixing as soon as flour is incorporated.

Place 3/4 cup batter in small bowl and stir in 2 tablespoons reserved raspberry puree. Pour vanilla batter into prepared pan. Drizzle raspberry batter over vanilla batter. Use knife to swirl it gently into vanilla batter.

Bake at 350 degrees just until wood pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Cool cake 10 minutes in pan. Use small sharp knife to loosen sides of cake from pan. Invert cake onto wire rack. Discard paper liner. Turn cake right side up to cool completely, about 1 hour.

To prepare frosting, in large bowl of electric mixer, beat butter, cream cheese, vanilla, lemon juice and peel on medium-low speed about 1 minute until mixture is smooth and butter and cream cheese are combined thoroughly. Decrease speed to low. Add powdered sugar in 2 additions, beating until sugar is incorporated and frosting is smooth.

Spread frosting over top and sides of cake. If frosting is too soft to spread, refrigerate it to firm slightly. Cover and store in refrigerator up to 3 days. Serve cake at room temperature.

Lemon Curd

Makes about 2 cups (see note)

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, softened

1 cup sugar

2 large eggs

2 large egg yolks

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

Beat butter and sugar in large bowl of electric mixer until mixture is light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Slowly add eggs and yolks and beat 1 minute. Mix in lemon juice. Mixture will look curdled.

Cook mixture in medium saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture looks smooth, 8 minutes. Curdling disappears as butter in mixture melts.

Increase heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens, leaves path on back of spoon, or measures 175 degrees on food thermometer, 5 minutes. Do not let mixture boil. Remove from heat. Stir in lemon peel.

Press plastic wrap onto surface of lemon curd and chill in refrigerator. Lemon curd thickens as it cools. Refrigerate up to 3 days or freeze in tightly sealed container up to 2 months.

Note: A good-quality, store-bought lemon curd can be substituted for this homemade version.

Lemon and Dark Chocolate Cake

Serves 12

2 3/4 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 ounces (1 1/2 sticks) soft unsalted butter, plus butter for pan

2 cups sugar

4 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 1/2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

1 1/4 cups buttermilk

1 ounce unsweetened chocolate, melted

4 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted

3/4 cup Lemon Curd (recipe follows)

Butter bottom, sides and center tube of 9 1/2- or 10-inch tube pan with at least 3 3/4-inch-high sides. Line bottom with parchment or wax paper and butter the paper.

Sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside.

In large bowl of electric mixer, beat butter and sugar until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Slowly add eggs and beat 1 minute. On low speed, mix in vanilla, lemon juice and lemon zest.

Alternately, add flour mixture in 3 additions with buttermilk, beginning and ending with flour mixture.

Place 2 cups of batter in small bowl and stir in melted chocolates.

Stir 3/4 cup of Lemon Curd into plain batter.

Spread half of lemon batter evenly into prepared pan. Spread chocolate batter evenly over plain batter. Spread remaining lemon batter evenly over top. Dip large rubber spatula in batter and draw it around pan and through center of batter to marbleize slightly.

Bake at 325 degrees about 50 minutes until wood pick inserted in center of cake comes out clean. Cool cake in pan 15 minutes on wire rack. Carefully loosen cake from sides and center tube of pan. Invert cake onto wire cake rack to cool. Turn top side up to serve at room temperature.

Lemon Cream Cheese Pie With Shiny Strawberries

Serves 8 to 10

CRUST:

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus butter for greasing pan

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel

FILLING AND TOPPING:

2 large eggs

2/3 cup sugar

12 ounces cream cheese, softened 3 to 4 hours at room temperature

2 tablespoons flour

1/2 cup sour cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 pints strawberries, cleaned, stemmed and halved lengthwise (see note)

1/4 cup red currant or strawberry jelly, melted

To prepare crust, mix together melted butter and lemon juice in medium bowl. Mix in crumbs, sugar and lemon peel, and combine well. Press crumb mixture evenly in buttered 10-inch pie pan. Bake at 325 degrees 6 minutes. Set aside.

To prepare filling, process eggs and sugar in food processor 1 minute until smooth. Add cream cheese and process with few short bursts to break up cream cheese, then process until mixture is smooth, about 15 seconds. Add flour, sour cream, vanilla extract, almond extract, lemon peel and juice and process just until mixture is smooth.

Pour batter into prepared crust. Bake at 325 degrees about 35 minutes until top looks firm when given gentle shake. Cover with paper towels and cool about 2 hours until cool to the touch.

Cover with plastic wrap and chill thoroughly in refrigerator at least 5 hours or overnight. Store in refrigerator up to 4 days. Add strawberry topping on day you serve pie. Arrange overlapping circles of strawberry halves to cover top of pie. Brush melted jelly over strawberries. Serve cold.

Note: You may not need all of the two pints of strawberries for the topping.

Pub Date: 03/17/99