Inviting friends in for drinks and hors d'oeuvres can be one of the most relaxed ways to entertain -- but not when the menu holds the host hostage in the kitchen. That won't happen if you plan simple-to-make-and-serve dishes you prepare entirely or partially ahead.

If you're not serving guests dinner afterward, plan to have the hors d'oeuvres hearty and plentiful enough to cushion the effects of any alcohol you pour, and offer soft drinks or mineral water as well. Present an appealing variety of dishes, counting on four to six hors d'oeuvres per guest.

For a manageable menu, strive for a balance of food you make ahead (or buy ready-made) and ones needing last-minute preparation.

Basil-Buttered Rounds With Radish Fans

Makes 12 appetizers

3 or 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 tablespoon finely minced fresh basil or 1 teaspoon dried

12 rounds French bread (2 inches in diameter, cut 1/4 inch thick)

12 radishes

coarse salt

In a small bowl, combine butter and basil and mix well. Spread thinly over each of the bread rounds.

Slice radishes paper-thin and fan slices atop buttered rounds. Sprinkle lightly with salt; serve at once.

Beef-Tapenade Rounds

Makes 12 open-faced rounds

1/2 pound large black Greek olives, pitted

1 ounce anchovy fillets, drained

1 clove garlic

2 tablespoons capers

2 tablespoons olive oil

freshly ground pepper, to taste

additional olive oil, as needed

12 slices French bread (2 inches in diameter, cut 1/4 inch thick)

1/2 pound lean roast beef, sliced paper thin

2 tablespoons minced chives, for garnish

Tapenade: Place olives, anchovies, garlic, capers and olive oil in food processor or blender; pulse briefly to chop coarsely. Transfer to bowl and add pepper to taste. Place in a glass jar, drizzle olive oil over surface, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 month until needed. Makes about 1 cup.

Spread Tapenade onto bread rounds and top with beef. Garnish with chives before serving.

Pub Date: 03/07/99