Sometimes the planets just align. We had been wanting an out-of-the-way trip. A wedding invitation came from a dear friend asking us to come to the small town of Baddeck on Cape Breton Island, about four hours' drive north of the already northerly Halifax, Nova Scotia. We mentioned the town to good friends in Washington; they were going up the same week and asked us to stay with them in a cottage just off the tranquil Bras d'Or lake. And old friends from Boston called to say they'd be camping nearby, not far from Ingonish on the Cabot Trail, the same week.
They all had one thing in common: They felt that camping in Maine, while lovely, was getting too crowded and bureaucratic, and they wondered what life was like farther north.
Although Cape Breton is a bit more daunting to get to (our trek took us by train through Vermont for a christening on Lake Catherine, on to Montreal for a wonderful French supper in Old Montreal, an Air Canada flight to Halifax and a Hertz car rental to Cape Breton), the long haul is definitely worth it. Some friends drove the whole way, others broke up the drive with an overnight ferry ride.
Cape Breton Island is where Alexander Graham Bell found refuge from the swampy heat of Washington, and an outlet for his inventive creativity. He built a grand home high above Bras d'Or, the inland sea, and dubbed it Beinn Bhreagh, which in Gaelic means beautiful mountain. And it is. The land is rich, brimming with forests, pristine waterfalls, uncrowded beaches, hiking trails through untamed mountains, rolling hills and friendly little towns that show their blend of Scottish, Mi'Kmaq Indian and fishing heritage.
Bell himself said of the island: "I have travelled around the globe. I have seen the Canadian and American Rockies, the Andes and the Alps and the Highlands of Scotland, but for simple beauty Cape Breton outrivals them all."
Baddeck is a cozy town of about 1,000 souls, and one of the largest of those that sit on the shores of Bras d'Or. For our first outing, our friends, now expert in the ways of Cape Breton, took us to Uisge Ban (oosh-ge-ban) falls just outside town at the foot of Crowdis Mountain. The falls, which mean "white water" in Gaelic, are reached by a short trail through the woods. We had packed picnic lunches and enjoyed them on the rocks at the foot of the splashing water. Afterward, we hiked along the tannin-colored Baddeck River, and, as the July day was hot and the woods were empty, we found a swimming hole among the rocks, changed into our bathing suits and plunged in. The water was COLD, and it was a bit strange to swim in what looked like iced tea, but it was heaven.
The next day, the wedding took place in St. Andrew's, a quaint, white-clapboard country church near the falls. We arrived in a downpour and raced inside as a young man in kilts played festive jigs on a bagpipe. In keeping with local tradition, my friend was "fiddled" down the aisle on her father's arm.
On the Cabot Trail
After the festivities, we were ready to explore the famed Cabot Trail, so named for John Cabot, who made landfall here in 1497 and staked Britain's claim to the island. The trail winds 185 miles through the 365-square-mile Cape Breton Highlands National Park and the northernmost part of the island, with 27 hiking trails, sailing, whale watching and uncrowded camping sites aplenty.
We drove north to Ingonish and had delicious crab roll sandwiches at the Muddy Rudder. Then we made a short side trip out to the famous and upscale Keltic Lodge -- where my friend was secretly honeymooning -- and took the short Middle Head Trail hike out to the end of the peninsula. To the south, the view of the imposing Cape Smokey was impressive. We basked in the sun and watched for gray whale spouts out on the vast blue Atlantic Ocean.
Later that afternoon, we took a sailboat cruise out of the mystical Dingwall and nosed around pods of pilot whales.
The next day, we met our Boston friends at their campground near Black Brook Beach. We took a coastal hike, then swam in the chilly, tea-colored water. Kids on air mattresses and inner tubes floated down a tea-colored river that washed them -- screaming with delight -- into the molasses-colored surf. A tea-colored waterfall gracefully fell from the rocky cliffs to the north. Apparently, the peaty, acidic Cape Breton soil makes tannins that seep into the water and turn it a coppery brown.
At our friends' campground, we grilled out and drank beer while bald eagles, as numerous as pigeons, circled overhead.
Our last outdoor adventure took us west across the island to Mabou Harbor for a lazy day on a beautiful and isolated beach. Tom's grandmother, Mary Maggie MacKay, was born and lived nearby until she moved south to Boston. On the way back to our cottage near Baddeck, we stopped to hike to the Appin Falls, on the Egypt Road outside Piper's Glen. Our hiking book said the falls looked like those in the old Kool cigarette ads. They do. And they're worth every steep step.
New Scotland
Nova Scotia is Latin for New Scotland, and many came here from the old country for the same reasons that brought countless others to North America: plentiful land and freedom from the social and religious constraints.
Some came as a result of the notorious Highland Clearances of the 18th century, when lords forced tenant farmers -- called crofters -- off the land to be able to bring in the more profitable sheep.
The strong Scottish flavor has endured in the local summer "gatherings" and "games," with the lilting strains of bagpipe and fiddle, and with local delicacies such as scones, cod and salmon.
One of the best gatherings is the Broad Cove Return, just outside Inverness. The annual daylong event attracts 8,000 people to a field adjacent to St. Margaret's Church in Broad Cove. Some of the best fiddlers, pipers and step dancers, like the Rankin Family and the controversial electric fiddling of Ashley MacIsaac, are regulars here, as well as the locals from the nearby school. We stayed until 10 p.m. and left while the music was still going strong.
For the die-hard Scot, don't miss a trip to St. Ann's Gaelic College, just outside Baddeck, with its collection of tartans, Gaelic language instruction and genealogical information. A listing of all Gaelic concerts, classes and activities is listed in Am Braighe, the newspaper of the local Gaelic association.
The Scots found a kinship in the misty, craggy peaks and lonely moors of Nova Scotia. One of them was Bell, who began coming here for summers in the 1880s.
Arriving in Baddeck, he climbed Telegraph Hill and peered across the bay, noticing a peninsula rimmed with rust-colored cliffs. The locals called it Redhead. After years of buying up peninsula land from local farmers, he renamed it Beinn Bhreagh.
At the edge of the peninsula he built a striking Victorian mansion, complete with turrets and high porches, where he worked and entertained notables of the day, including Helen Keller. Bell died there in 1922 and is buried on a hill overlooking his home.
Baddeck has a fine museum chronicling Bell's life and inventions. Though he is best known for the telephone, he also developed an early iron lung, airplane and even the hydrofoil boat, a massive wooden craft that would skitter along Bras d'Or lake leaving the locals gaping at the sight.
An Ideal Day
8 a.m.: Wake up at the Breezy Brae Bed & Breakfast in Baddeck. After a hearty meal and coffee on the veranda, with its sweeping views of Bras d'or, head into town and stroll along Chebucto Street. Spend an hour at the Alexander Graham Bell Historic Site, a first-rate museum with hands-on activities for children, a fine collection of photos and models of Bell's inventions from his famous telephone to lesser-known creations such as the iron lung and hydrofoil boat.
10 a.m.: Head north to drive along the Cabot Trail in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.
11 a.m.: First stop, Ingonish. Buy some sandwiches to go at the Muddy Rudder and take them to the nearby Keltic Lodge on Middle Head Peninsula. There's an easy hiking trail that takes you to a point with sweeping views of the Atlantic and passing whales. Relax and have a picnic lunch.
12:30 p.m.: Continue north on the Cabot Trail, stopping briefly to see the curious, natural wonder of Black Brook Beach. If it's a nice day, take a dip in the molasses-colored waters.
1:30 p.m.: Stop at Dingwall for a whale watch aboard an old schooner and watch the pilot whales dive just yards off the boat. There are also whale watches at nearby Bay St. Lawrence or farther down the trail at Cheticamp.
4 p.m.: Drive at a leisurely pace along the north and western part of the trail and marvel at the misty mountains, crashing waterfalls at Beulach Ban, wind-swept fields and steep drops to the ocean.
6 p.m.: For dinner, head south to Margaree, and the Normaway Inn for a superb country gourmet meal of Atlantic salmon, lamb raised along the nearby Margaree River and vegetables grown in the garden. Relax with a drink in front of the old stone fireplace.
8 p.m.: Fiddling begins after dinner at the Normaway, with square dancing later. Or you may wish to check out local listings for gatherings and ceilidh dances.
WHEN YOU GO ...
Timing: July and August are the best months in Nova Scotia, weather wise. Days can be sunny and hot and evenings considerably cooler. Bring a heavy sweater and plan to hunker down next to a crackling fire at night. As with any northerly clime, prepare for rain.
By car: Driving is, by far, the most economical way to get to Cape Breton Island, but it takes a long time. The drive to Portland, Maine, is about 12 hours. From there, catch the Scotia Prince car ferry to Yarmouth in southern Nova Scotia. The ferry leaves at 9 p.m. daily and arrives at 10 the next morning; it costs about $418 for two people, one car and one economy cabin. From there, the drive either along the coast or through Halifax to Cape Breton in the north can take another six to eight hours.
Another route is to drive to Bar Harbor, Maine, and take the new "Cat" ferry to Yarmouth, a 2 3/4 -hour trip. The Cat leaves Bar Harbor twice a day in the summer, at 8 a.m. and 4 p.m., and costs $46 per adult, $23 for children over 5. Cars cost $60 to $180, depending on their height.
Reservations for both ferries are strongly recommended. Contact Prince of Fundy ferries: 800-341-7540; fax 207-773-7403; www.princeoffundy.com. Bay ferries: 888-249-7245 or www. nfl-bay.com.
By air: More expensive? Yes, but not terribly so. Faster? Definitely. Going by air makes sense when you've only got a week. Air Canada has several flights a day from BWI to Halifax with one plane change in Toronto. High-season summer rates are generally around $318, but the airline usually runs specials and sales that can be checked through its Web page (www.aircanada.ca) or by calling 800-776-3000. One recent sale dropped the price to $223. Flights directly to the Cape Breton town of Sydney, north of Baddeck, run about $534 from BWI. A rental car for one week costs about $160 in high season.
Where to stay: We made Baddeck our headquarters for a number of reasons: It's centrally located on the island and in a truly lovely spot. We loved the Breezy Brae (902-295-2818, fax: 902-295-1700, e-mail: manwood@atcon.com) a cozy bed and breakfast in a century-old summer home. The 90-foot wraparound veranda overlooks the serene Bras d'Or Lake and there's access to a private beach. Like most B&Bs; -- and there are a number -- a double room costs little more than $50.
The famous old Telegraph House, (902-295-1100, fax: 902-295-1136, e-mail: telegraph @auracom.com) on the main drag, where Alexander Graham Bell once stayed, has a cozy sitting room and affordable rooms.
Some of the larger, resort hotels run packages. To go upscale, stay at the Keltic Lodge in Ingonish (902-285-2880 or 800-565-0444, fax: 902-285-2859, e-mail: keltic@capebretonet. com). A double with a full breakfast and dinner runs from $263 to $278 in summer.
Farm houses and private homes are also available by the week all over the island. For budget and wilderness travelers, the camping is abundant in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park from mid-May to mid-October. The Broad Cove camping area has 173 sites, showers, kitchen shelters, group fireplaces, playgrounds and an outdoor theater. Reservations are necessary only for group camping and wheelchair- accessible sites. Call the Cheticamp Information Centre: 902-224-2306, or 902-285-2535, or the Ingonish Operations Office, 902-285-2691.
Where to eat: Cape Breton is brimming with great seafood restaurants and clam chowder joints. In Baddeck, the Bell Buoy, Lakeside Cafe and Telegraph House were favorites. A lunch of lobster or crab roll at Baddeck Lobster Suppers (a tour bus hangout) runs about $6.95. For upscale eats, the Normaway Inn in Margaree serves a four-course country gourmet supper of Atlantic salmon, lamb raised nearby and vegetables grown in the garden for about $35. A full country breakfast costs $10.50.
Information: Call the Cape Breton Tourist Information Office at 800-565-9464 or write Tourism Cape Breton, Distribution Division, P.O. Box 1448, Sydney, NS, B1P 6R7. Or visit the Web site at www. capebretonet.com.
Pub Date: 03/07/99