1997 Chateau Souverain Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($13).

Here's a mid-priced chardonnay that really delivers the goods. It's intensely flavorful, with an ideal balance of fruit and sweet, toasty oak. There are nuances of apple, lemon and spices. The flavor lingers most pleasantly on the palate. Try this well-made value with salmon, chicken or ham.

Pub Date: 02/10/99