1997 J. u. H. A. Strub Niersteiner Riesling Kabinett, Rheinhessen ($9/liter).

This crisp, mostly dry, apple-y white wine is a terrific party riesling. It's a far more simple, direct white wine than the complex single- vineyard Nierstein wines that have made Strub one of the hottest producers in Germany. But the spiciness and clean acidity give the consumer a glimpse of the integrity of Strub's winemaking. Or, if the consumer is just looking for a bit of tasty fun, it's that too. You can serve it confidently with Cajun food or with spicy Asian cuisine. For a more conventional match, try it with pork and sauerkraut.