1997 J. Lohr Monterey "Riverstone" Chardonnay ($10)
Few California chardonnays in this price bracket show as much personality and intensity as this sterling example from Lohr. It's one of the best sources of value from the Golden State. Although there's plenty of body, it also offers a crisp, clean finish and delicious vanilla, lemon, apple and white pepper flavors. A natural to serve with salmon or ham.