1997 Boordy Sur Lie Reserve ($9).

This seyval blanc from Maryland's oldest winery has long been a great white-wine bargain. It slumped in the rain-plagued 1996 vintage, but has bounced back with a sterling 1997 in a racy new style. It's still a concentrated, intensely flavored wine, but Boordy has lightened the exposure to oak and let the fruit come through more strongly. While the wine is fully dry, it manages to give a sweet impression with flavors of honey and peach - seasoned with notes of mulling spices, fresh-baked bread and white pepper. Buy by the case, but make sure every bottle is 1997.

Pub Date: 12/09/98

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