1997 Murphy-Goode Barrel-Fermented Pinot Blanc, Russian River Valley ($13.50).

This clean, crisp, yeasty dry white wine offers richness similar to chardonnay, but without chardonnay's sometimes-oppressive oakiness. The lemon, pear and mineral flavors are a fine match for firm-fleshed fish such as salmon or swordfish, and the wine has enough structure, grip and length to hold its own with chicken, turkey or ham.

Pub Date: 12/02/98